Bring Your Wool Dyeing Into The 21st Century!

wy New Hampshire night, years ago, my friend Marciagenerally known that 1% dye to the weight of the wool
invited me over to learn how to hook rugs. I was awill produce a medium value for most colors, and it is
seasoned crafter and explained to her that, with threealso well-known that doubling the amount of dye on
young children, I wanted a project that could bethe wool with each value produces a gradation that
completed quickly. So she showed me how to make atakes the color from light to dark in 6-8 jumps (this is, in
penny rug. For those who are new to wool crafting,effect, what the 'jar method' accomplishes). So one
penny rugs are comprised of pieces of wool that aregood option for producing 6 values, (working outward
appliquéd, using the blanket stitch, onto a base piecefrom the medium value at 1%) is to use: .125%, .25%,
of wool, or other fabric. Generations ago, women used.5%, 1%, 2%, and 4% (although 3% produces a color
scraps from their wool rug hooking efforts, and cut thenearly as dark, with less dye). Some time spent trialing
scraps into circles, using a penny as a template. Thevalues will give you a progression that you like, and this
circles were arranged in pretty designs, stitched ontoprogression will work for most color formulas that you
the base fabric, and turned into decorations for theuse, except, perhaps, formulas that are mostly yellow -
house -- table runners, doilies, coverlets, etc.a slightly more saturated progression is needed there.
Nowadays, penny rug designs may be much moreOnce I know what formula I want to use, and what
complex, as crafters take the art to new places. Thevalue I want to make it, the only remaining question is
craft is gaining popularity, because it is easy to createhow much of the overall formula to mix up, and I
something pretty and useful at the same time. And adetermine this by weighing the wool to be dyed, and
simple project could be completed in an evening ordoing some basic calculations. Follow me through a
two.sample calculation, and see if you can make sense of
So my friend supplied me with wool from her stash toit:
get started. From the moment she brought out TheLet's say I have 100 grams of wool (about ¼ yard),
Wool, I loved the craft. I made my own design for thatand I want to dye it to a medium value in a 90% red /
first penny rug and brought my own style to the10% yellow formula. Since a 1% ratio of dye-to-wool
project, using a theme from Genesis of the serpent inproduces a medium value, and I already use a 1%
a tree in the Garden of Eden, with thorns embroidereddyestock solution, equal parts of dyestock and wool
around the edges, growing in towards the "garden" inwill, therefore, produce the medium value that I want,
the middle. The only elements in the design that couldsince 100 ml of 1% dyestock will deposit 1% dye onto
be considered "pennies" were the round fruits on thethe wool. Once I know that I need 100 ml of dyestock, I
tree. I made it symbolic, telling a story in the Bible thatmultiply that amount times the percentages in the
was meaningful to me, and that first project grabbedformula. So I will mix 90 ml red and 10 ml yellow for this
my attention, so that I could hardly wait to do more.example.
When it came time to shop for more wool, I quicklyHere is the same thing in equation form:
realized that, as frugal as I was, I would have a hard100g wool X 1 (factoring the percent of dye needed to
time affording all the colors that I wanted for futureproduce a medium value) = 100 ml dyestock. Then:
projects. So I determined to learn to dye my own90% X 100ml = 90 ml red dye 10% X 100 ml = 10 ml
wool. I have never been one to take the beaten pathyellow dye
or do anything small-scale, so I was not inclined to rushHere is another example, for dyeing 300g wool to a
to the store and buy all the pre-formulated colors anddark value at a 3% dye factor, using a formula
just start dyeing. I needed someplace to start, and acontaining 70% red / 10% yellow / 20% blue:
way to sample a large variety of colors from which I300g (wool) X 3(dye factor) = 900 ml dyestock
could choose my favorites. So I rifled through old70% X 900 = 630ml red 10% X 900 = 90ml yellow
issues of 'Threads' magazine to see if there might be20% X 900 = 180ml blue
helpful information there. Lo and behold, I stumbled upon(Notice that we don't multiply the weight of the wool
what turned out to be a life-changing article by Lindaby 3 percent, but by 3. This is because the percentage
Knutson about dyeing using only the three primaries,symbol expresses the amount of dye powder as a
dissolved in water to a 1% dilution. I liked this idea. Itpercentage of the dyestock that we need to get the
would keep the mechanics simple and the buying ofvalue we want, but in the equation we are calculating
supplies to a minimum, so that I could experiment tothe amount of dyestock itself to use, which is exactly
my greedy heart's content. The article also outlined a100 times the amount of dye itself. Using percent in the
systematic approach to trialing colors, usingequation would divide the final answer by 100, which
progressive percentage-based formulas. Brilliant! Awould be incorrect. So dropping the percent sign and
way to address my need for organization, whileusing the number alone is simply a shortcut to getting
allowing me to be creative.the correct answer.)
So I would like to share with you, after the thousandsHave you heard the adage, "Give a man a fish and
of hours I have spent using these methods, why I loveyou feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you
them.feed him for a lifetime"? This is, in essence, what I am
KEEPING COLOR CHOICES SIMPLE The very firstdoing. Rather than saying, "here is a formula that will
decision I made at the outset was to use only whitedye 1 yard of wool", I am showing you how to
wool. Since then, I have had to content myself withassemble boiler-plate formulas and equation that will
using natural, because white is not always available,take you wherever you want to go when dyeing, and
and I want to be as consistent as possible, since I alsowith relative ease once you are used to it. Don't let the
sell wool. (Using natural wool does add a tiny bit ofmath intimidate you - it's all stuff we learned in the fifth
warmth to the colors, but not enough to worry about.)grade, and you ARE smarter than a fifth grader!
Before I started dyeing, I saw many formulas using aI could go into more detail here (in fact there will be a
base wool of taupe, or khaki, etc., but I concluded that Ibook on this sometime in the future) but for now I am
would have every color of the rainbow eventuallyjust giving you the gist of the method. I will provide
anyway, so to use one base color would keepmore help in future articles, so stay tuned!
everything consistent. I further standardized by creatingTHE BENEFITS OF USING LIQUID DYESTOCK Liquid
formulas using only the three primaries. I work in colordyestock is, without doubt, the most convenient way
families or 'tiers' of color, from very bright to primitive,to dye wool. Even if you use pre-formulated colors,
and I determine where a color belongs by how muchmaintaining dyestock in the colors you use most will
of the third primary it contains. If I were using mixturesspeed up your dyeing -- you can walk into the kitchen
of pre-formulated colors, this kind of organization wouldand dye a few pieces easily. One of the great
be impossible. My method also allows me to see gapsconveniences of this method is that you need only
between formulas, ensuring that I have a continuousproduce dyestock occasionally, if you produce a fair
selection all around the color wheel in each tier.quantity. For instance, 1,000 ml of dyestock will dye
It is also easier to find colors that are in between1,000 grams (about 2 1/2 yards) of wool to a medium
colors I already have. For instance, if I am studying twovalue, so if you produce 3,000 ml of each primary,
blues and I want to find the color in between, splitting(nearly a gallon) this will carry you through a fairly large
the difference in the formula will nearly alwaysproject, or several smaller ones, even if you dye all
produce the color I want, provided that I start with twoyour own wool. Once made, your dyestock will keep
colors that are fairly similar. Sometimes it takes twofor a long time. Dyestock will, theoretically, last
stabs to get the formula right, but that is usually all itindefinitely, given the quality and sterility of the water
takes. By expressing all formulas in the same simpleyou use, but for practical purposes, ProChem says it
terms (three colors, in percentages), we reduce anwill last a minimum of 6 months. If you dye regularly,
unknown formula to a mathematical equation, ratherthere is not much danger of wasting a lot of dyestock.
than an educated guess.Using liquid dyestock will give you the kind of control
GOING METRIC Like most of us, I am accustomed toneeded to dye small pieces with accuracy. Using a
using English measurements, and when I do anything1-ml syringe (the type used to deliver insulin) helps
else I still use cups, yards, pounds, teaspoons and allmake this possible. And when using several colors to
the rest. But when I started dyeing wool, I felt a greatproduce a formula, small nuances in tone can be
need to eliminate as many variables as I could. So Imade. For instance, yellows are very, very difficult to
took a huge breath and switched my mindset, whereformulate with accuracy, because tiny changes in the
The Wool is concerned, to using metric measurementred and blue of a yellow formula produce dramatic
for everything, despite my previous reluctance to doresults. Working in drops, however, these fine changes
this anywhere else in my life. I am so glad I did.are quite possible, in fact there is a predictable
Honestly, using the metric system makes the mathmathematical progression of formulas in yellow that
easy to manage once you are accustomed to it, andproduces everything from near-green to near-orange,
not beyond the average person with basic math skills.and every nuance in between.
The great beauty of the metric system is that 1 ml ofContrary to what you might think initially, I find this
water weighs 1 gram, so liquid measure and drymethod to be a tidy way to dye, especially when the
measure can be treated as equal for wool-dyeingdye powder (nasty, messy stuff, in my opinion) spends
purposes. This principle is absolutely key to everythingmost of the time in the cupboard. I use various-sized
one does when using this method. You can relate thesyringes and small graduated pitchers to dispense
gram weight of dye powder equally to the mldyestock. Because the dyestock that I use is dilute,
measurement of water when making dyestock, andspills rarely cause a stain if I wipe them quickly, even
you can relate the gram weight of the wool equally toon my oiled oak floors and birch countertops. I use
the amount of ml in the dyestock, when choosing ascrew-top lids to store dyestock, and keep the lids
value for a color.screwed on when not in use, and I pour larger
For instance, I mix 1 gram of dye with 99 ml of water,amounts of dyestock over the sink to avoid big
creating 100 ml of a '1% solution dyestock'. Because 1accidents.
ml of water weighs 1 gram, this 1/99 ratio of dye toA FEW CAVEATS Using the three primaries does
water is mathematically accurate and easy to quantify.have its limitations, but they are few. I have formulated
I make 1% dyestock for each primary, and store it all inmany browns and blacks using the three primaries,
milk jugs. So remember:however, these colors are more difficult to produce. A
1 gram dye powder + 99 ml water = a 1% dyestocklot of stirring is required, and the use of Glauber's salt
solutionmandatory to produce any kind of even result. Even
USING PERCENTAGE-BASED FORMULAS Now I'mthen, your results may vary from batch-to-batch. If you
going to make you think a little harder. You'd better goare more fussy about your results, you may prefer to
get a cup of coffee!use pre-formulated browns and blacks, and add a little
In addition to adopting the metric system, I continuedof the primaries to adjust them.
standardizing my methods by rendering all formulas inI use ProChem dyes, and have yet to experiment with
percentages, rather than teaspoon fractions. Thisother brands, although I can guess that even if the
creates a 'universal' formula that will work, regardlessoverall results vary from ProChem dyes, those brands
of the size piece being dyed. For instance, if I am usingwould still behave predictably, using the same methods.
a formula that is 90% red and 10% yellow, thatI hope this inspires you to try this method, which has
percentage will remain constant for any piece I dye.worked so well for me. This is the first in a series of
Since every formula, no matter who makes it, isarticles on the subject, and in future articles I will
ultimately a mathematical equation, whether it isprovide more detail about the methods I use, including
rendered in percentages or 1/16 teaspoons - working inequipment (with resources), working in percentages,
percentages broadens your ability to apply thatsetting up mathematical progressions of color formulas,
formula in any circumstance.how to trial color samples, and the care and feeding of
I also use percentage measurement to determine howyour dyestock.
much dyestock to use to produce the value I need. It is