| If you ever considered how the dark business suit, the | | | | hand by the experts) very much like fine suede, and a |
| trench coat, school tie, sporting tie, gabardine, and | | | | matte finish. |
| tweed evolved. Plus the commercialisation of madder | | | | 'The well-dressed man about town should wear |
| print, then you may be quite surprised to find that they | | | | clothes that are simple, functional and discreet', George |
| all originated in England and have become the hallmark | | | | Bryan "Beau" Brummell commanded in the early 19th |
| of classicism. They have been included in designer | | | | century. By advocating well-cut, tailored clothes, |
| brands collections year after year. I hear the Converse | | | | Brummell essentially invented what has come to be |
| All Star is back in fashion, this did not originate in | | | | known as the "British look." |
| England, but it's just a good example highlighting the | | | | Brummell rejected 18th century frills (dandy man). His |
| difference between what is fashionable (short term) | | | | mandate, a dark blue coat, buff-coloured pantaloons |
| and what is style (long term) | | | | and waistcoat, black boots and a clean white neck |
| Here are just a few historic examples of the evolution | | | | cloth, survives today asthedark business suit, white |
| of style and the progress of fashion. | | | | shirt and silk tie |
| Thomas Burberry opened his own business in 1856 in | | | | He was particularly adamant about the whiteness of |
| Basingstoake, Hampshire. His commitment to both | | | | his cravats. As he made his daily rounds from the |
| form and function in apparel design has been significant | | | | park, various gentleman's clubs and fashionable homes, |
| throughout the development of the company and its | | | | Brummell would stop and change his cravat as often |
| products. Noticing how local shepherds and farmers | | | | as three times a day. He preferred neck cloths that |
| wore linen smocks, which were cool in summer and | | | | were lightly starched and carefully folded. |
| warm in the winter, he attempted to apply the same | | | | The simplicity of Brummell's uniform was adopted by |
| principles to other clothing. In 1879 he developed a | | | | everyone from many working men to his friend, the |
| fabric which was weatherproofed in the yarn before | | | | Prince Regent, later King George IV. For the first time, |
| weaving, using a secret process and then proofed | | | | poorer men hoping to make their way in the world |
| again in the piece, using the same undisclosed formula. | | | | could easily imitate upper class fashion. |
| The new material was untearable and weatherproof, | | | | And now to the origination of most enduring fashion |
| whilst cool and breathable. He called the cloth | | | | accessories for men: In 1880, the rowing club at |
| 'gabardine' and registered the word as a trademark. | | | | Oxford Universities Exeter College, invented the first |
| The English Madder silk tie is recognised worldwide as | | | | school ties. After an emotional win over their rivals, |
| an icon of British style. It's a home grown classic with a | | | | they celebrated by removing their ribbon hat bands |
| proud heritage and a distinct provenance. The | | | | from their boater hats and tying them, four in hand |
| "madder" part of this lovely phrase refers to a natural | | | | around their necks. When they ordered a set of ties, |
| dye from a Eurasian herbaceous plant, Rubia tinctoria. | | | | with the colours from their hatbands, they had |
| Its continuing success through decades of rise and fall | | | | accidentally created the modern school tie. Schools, |
| owe much too scientific intervention. The colouring | | | | clubs, and athletic ties appeared in abundance. Some |
| agent in madder root called alizarin was in fact first | | | | schools had different ties for various grades, levels of |
| chemically extracted and then synthesized in 1869 by | | | | achievement, and for graduates. Thanks to historians |
| two English chemists. Although the dyeing process, | | | | and their method of accurate documentation all the |
| even today, requires a variety of painstaking steps, | | | | original college colours are still available from archived |
| synthesized alizarin brought the price within the reach | | | | samples and replicate ties can be made to order. |
| of commercial producers. Testimony to the significant | | | | But let's not forget the perfect companion for your tie? |
| part science plays ensuring the longevity of styles and | | | | Cufflinks of course. |
| textiles. Silk dyed in this manner is characterized by a | | | | Just a hint of how styles evolved and fashion has |
| dusty-looking finish and a feel (referred to as a chalk | | | | progressed throughout the ages. |