Denim

Denim is a rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weftlife. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a
passes under two (twi- "double") or more warp fibers.more natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.
This produces the familiar diagonal ribbing identifiable on shirtTo facilitate the natural distressing process, some
the reverse of the fabric, which distinguishes denimwearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing
from cotton duck. Denim has been in American usagetheir jeans for more than six months,[3] though it is not
since the late eighteenth century.[1] The word comesa necessity for fading. Often, enthusiasts will just hang
from the name of a sturdy fabric called serge, originallytheir unwashed denim to help get rid of the smell.
made in Nmes, France, by the Andre family. OriginallySelvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type
called serge de N?mes, the name was soonof denim which forms a clean natural edge that does
shortened to denim.[2] Denim was traditionally colorednot unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed
blue with indigo dye to make blue "jeans," though "jean"or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be
then denoted a different, lighter cotton textile; thelocated along the outseam of the pants, making it
contemporary use of jean comes from the Frenchvisible when cuffs are worn. Although selvage denim is
word for Genoa, Italy (Gnes), where the first denimnot completely synonymous with unwashed denim, the
trousers were made.presence of selvage typically implies that the denim
A similarly woven traditional American cotton textile isused is a higher quality.
the diagonal warp-striped hickory cloth that was onceThe word "selvage" comes from the phrase
associated with railroadmen's overalls, in which blue or"self-edge", the natural edge of a roll of fabric. In this
black contrasting with undyed white threads form thecase, denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These
woven pattern. Hickory cloth was characterized aslooms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread
being as rugged as hickory woodot to mention the(the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way
fact that it was deemed to be worn mainly bydown the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back
"hicks"lthough neither may be the origin of that terminto the edge of the denim it creates this elf-edgeor
[from a nickname for "Richard"]. Records of a groupSelvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge can
of New Yorkers headed for the California gold fields infray like lower grade denims that have separate
1849 show that they took along four "hickory shirts"wefts which leave an open edge that must be
apiece. Hickory cloth would later furnish the material forstitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming
some "fatigue" pantaloons and shirts in the Americanweaving process that produces denim of a tighter
Civil War.word dungarees, to identify heavy cottonweave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts.
pants such as overalls, can be traced to a thick cottonShuttle looms weave a more narrow piece of fabric,
country-made cloth, Dongari Kapar, which was sold inand thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a
the quarter contiguous to the Dongari Killa, the fort ofpair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize
what was then known as Bombay (Hobson Johnsonyield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way
Dictionary). The word entered English with just thisto the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the
meaning in 1696 (OED). Dongri Fort was rebuilt in 1769two selvage edges, where the denim is sewn
as Fort George, Bombay, where the first cotton milltogether, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually
was established in 1854. Dyed in indigo, the traditionalstiched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow,
cloth was used by Portuguese sailors and cut wide soand red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used
that the legs could be swiftly rolled up whenthese colors to differentiate between fabrics.
necessary. Thus, dungarees have a separate history.Most selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic
Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is aindigo, but natural indigo dye is available in smaller niche
denim fabric that is not washed after being dyeddenim labels. Loop dying machines feed a rope of
during its production. Over time, denim will generallycotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back
fade, which is often considered desirable.ethnic">out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip.
shirtMost denim is washed after being crafted into anMultiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue.
article of clothing in order to make it softer and toIn response to increased demand for jeans in the
eliminate any shrinkage which could cause an item to1950's, American denim manufacturers replaced the
not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to beingold shuttle style looms with modern projectile looms.
washed, non-dry denim is sometimes artificiallyThe new looms produced fabric faster and wider
"distressed" to achieve a worn-in look.(60-inches or wider), yet lighter and less durable.
Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact thatSynthetic dyeing techniques along with post-dye
with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar totreatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.
factory distressed denim. With dry denim, however,Raymond, India is major supplier of Denim high quality
such fading is affected by the body of the persondenim in India and European market.
who wears the jeans and the activities of their dailyA similarly woven traditional American cotton textile is
life. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be athe diagonal warp-striped hickory cloth that was once
more natural, unique look than pre-distressedassociated with railroadmen's overalls, in which blue or
denim.facilitate the natural distressing process, someblack contrasting with undyed white threads form the
wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washingwoven pattern. Hickory cloth was characterized as
their jeans for more than six months,[3] though it is notbeing as rugged as hickory woodot to mention the
a necessity for fading. Often, enthusiasts will just hangfact that it was deemed to be worn mainly by
their unwashed denim to help get rid of the smell."hicks"lthough neither may be the origin of that term
Selvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type[from a nickname for "Richard"]. Records of a group
of denim which forms a clean natural edge that doesof New Yorkers headed for the California gold fields in
not unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed1849 show that they took along four "hickory shirts"
or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will beapiece. Hickory cloth would later furnish the material for
located along the outseam of the pants, making itsome "fatigue" pantaloons and shirts in the American
visible when cuffs are worn. Although selvage denim isCivil War.
not completely synonymous with unwashed denim, theThe word dungarees, to identify heavy cotton pants
presence of selvage typically implies that the denimsuch as overalls, can be traced to a thick cotton
used is a higher quality.word "selvage" comes from thecountry-made cloth, Dongari Kapar, which was sold in
phrase "self-edge", the natural edge of a roll of fabric.the quarter contiguous to the Dongari Killa, the fort of
In this case, denim made on old-style shuttle looms.what was then known as Bombay (Hobson Johnson
These looms weave fabric with one continuous crossDictionary). The word entered English with just this
thread (the weft) that is passed back and forth all themeaning in 1696 (OED). Dongri Fort was rebuilt in 1769
way down the length of the bolt. As the weft loopsas Fort George, Bombay, where the first cotton mill
back into the edge of the denim it creates thiswas established in 1854. Dyed in indigo, the traditional
elf-edgeor Selvage. Selvage is desirable because thecloth was used by Portuguese sailors and cut wide so
edge can fray like lower grade denims that havethat the legs could be swiftly rolled up when
separate wefts which leave an open edge that mustnecessary. Thus, dungarees have a separate history.
be stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consumingDry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is a
weaving process that produces denim of a tighterdenim fabric that is not washed after being dyed
weave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts.during its production. Over time, denim will generally
Shuttle looms weave a more narrow piece of fabric,fade, which is often considered desirable.
and thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make aMost denim is washed after being crafted into an
pair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximizearticle of clothing in order to make it softer and to
yield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the wayeliminate any shrinkage which could cause an item to
to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up thenot fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being
two selvage edges, where the denim is sewnwashed, non-dry denim is sometimes artificially
together, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually"distressed" to achieve a worn-in look.
stiched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow,Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that
and red (red is the most common). Fabric mills usedwith time the fabric will fade in a manner similar to
these colors to differentiate between fabrics.factory distressed denim. With dry denim, however,
Most selvage jeans today are dyed with syntheticsuch fading is affected by the body of the person
indigo, but natural indigo dye is available in smaller nichewho wears the jeans and the activities of their daily
denim labels. Loop dying machines feed a rope oflife. This creates what many enthusiasts feel to be a
cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then backmore natural, unique look than pre-distressed denim.
out. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip.To facilitate the natural distressing process, some
Multiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue.wearers of dry denim will often abstain from washing
In response to increased demand for jeans in thetheir jeans for more than six months,[3] though it is not
1950's, American denim manufacturers replaced thea necessity for fading. Often, enthusiasts will just hang
old shuttle style looms with modern projectile looms.their unwashed denim to help get rid of the smell.
The new looms produced fabric faster and widerSelvage denim (also called selvedge denim) is a type
(60-inches or wider), yet lighter and less durable.of denim which forms a clean natural edge that does
Synthetic dyeing techniques along with post-dyenot unravel. It is commonly presented in the unwashed
treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.or raw state. Typically, the selvage edges will be
Raymond, India is major supplier of Denim high qualitylocated along the outseam of the pants, making it
denim in India and European market.visible when cuffs are worn. Although selvage denim is
A similarly woven traditional American cotton textile isnot completely synonymous with unwashed denim, the
the diagonal warp-striped hickory cloth that was oncepresence of selvage typically implies that the denim
associated with railroadmen's overalls, in which blue orused is a higher quality.
black contrasting with undyed white threads form theThe word "selvage" comes from the phrase
woven pattern. Hickory cloth was characterized as"self-edge", the natural edge of a roll of fabric. In this
being as rugged as hickory woodot to mention thecase, denim made on old-style shuttle looms. These
fact that it was deemed to be worn mainly bylooms weave fabric with one continuous cross thread
"hicks"lthough neither may be the origin of that term(the weft) that is passed back and forth all the way
[from a nickname for "Richard"]. Records of a groupdown the length of the bolt. As the weft loops back
of New Yorkers headed for the California gold fields ininto the edge of the denim it creates this elf-edgeor
1849 show that they took along four "hickory shirts"Selvage. Selvage is desirable because the edge can
apiece. Hickory cloth would later furnish the material forfray like lower grade denims that have separate
some "fatigue" pantaloons and shirts in the Americanwefts which leave an open edge that must be
Civil War.stitched. Shuttle looming is a more time-consuming
 topsThe word dungarees, to identify heavy cottonweaving process that produces denim of a tighter
pants such as overalls, can be traced to a thick cottonweave resulting in a heavier weight fabric that lasts.
country-made cloth, Dongari Kapar, which was sold inShuttle looms weave a more narrow piece of fabric,
the quarter contiguous to the Dongari Killa, the fort ofand thus a longer piece of fabric is required to make a
what was then known as Bombay (Hobson Johnsonpair of jeans (approximately 3 yards). To maximize
Dictionary). The word entered English with just thisyield, traditional jean makers use the fabric all the way
meaning in 1696 (OED). Dongri Fort was rebuilt in 1769to the selvage edge. When the cuff is turned up the
as Fort George, Bombay, where the first cotton milltwo selvage edges, where the denim is sewn
was established in 1854. Dyed in indigo, the traditionaltogether, can be seen. The selvage edge is usually
cloth was used by Portuguese sailors and cut wide sostiched with colored thread: green, white, brown, yellow,
that the legs could be swiftly rolled up whenand red (red is the most common). Fabric mills used
necessary. Thus, dungarees have a separate history.these colors to differentiate between fabrics.
Dry or raw denim, as opposed to washed denim, is aMost selvage jeans today are dyed with synthetic
denim fabric that is not washed after being dyedindigo, but natural indigo dye is available in smaller niche
during its production. Over time, denim will generallydenim labels. Loop dying machines feed a rope of
fade, which is often considered desirable.cotton yarn through vats of indigo dye and then back
 shirtMost denim is washed after being crafted intoout. The dye is allowed to oxidize before the next dip.
an article of clothing in order to make it softer and toMultiple dips create a deep dark indigo blue.
eliminate any shrinkage which could cause an item toIn response to increased demand for jeans in the
not fit after the owner washes it. In addition to being1950's, American denim manufacturers replaced the
washed, non-dry denim is sometimes artificiallyold shuttle style looms with modern projectile looms.
"distressed" to achieve a worn-in look.The new looms produced fabric faster and wider
Much of the appeal of dry denim lies in the fact that(60-inches or wider), yet lighter and less durable.
with time the fabric will fade in a manner similar toSynthetic dyeing techniques along with post-dye
factory distressed denim. With dry denim, however,treatments were introduced to control shrink and twist.
such fading is affected by the body of the personRaymond, India is major supplier of Denim high quality
who wears the jeans and the activities of their dailydenim in India and European market.