Hanoi's Old Quarter: the 36 streets

In the early 13th century, the collection of tiny workshopcoins. Today a flower market exists where the Cau
villages which clustered around the palace wallsGo alley intersects with the main street. Other historical
evolved into craft cooperatives, or guilds.sites on Cau Go are the secret headquarters and
The Old Quarter began to acquire its reputation as ahiding place of the 1930-45 "Love the Country"
crafts area when the Vietnamese attainedresistance movement.
independence in the 11th century and King Ly Thai ToCau Go today is a commercial street specializing in
built his palace there. In the early 13th century, thewomen’s accessories.
collection of tiny workshop villages which clusteredHang Dao Street
around the palace walls evolved into craftThis street is one of Vietnam’s oldest streets. It
cooperatives, or guilds. Skilled craftsmen migrated toserves as a main axis running from north to south,
the Quarter, and artisan guilds were formed bycutting the Old Quarter in half. In the French Colonial
craftsmen originating from the same village andtime, Hang Dao Street was a center for the trading of
performing similar services. Members of the guildssilk products. On the first and sixth days of the lunar
worked and lived together, creating a cooperativemonth, there were fairs for the sale of silk items.
system for transporting merchandise to the designatedShops also sold other types of fabric such as gauze,
streets in the business quarter.brocade, crepe, and muslin. Almost all the non-silk
Because inhabitants of each street came from theproducts were white.
same village, streets developed a homogeneous look.In the beginning of the 15th century, this street was the
Commoners’ homes evolved out of market stalls,location of the silk dyer guild from the Hai Hung
before streets were formed. Because storekeepersProvince, which specialized in a deep pink dye. Dao,
were taxed according to the width of their storefront,the name of the street, refers to the pink of apricot
storage and living space moved to the rear of theblossoms, which are symbolic of the Vietnamese
buildings. Consequently, the long and narrow buildingsLunar New Year. The demand for this special color
were called "tube houses." Typical measurements forwas so high that the fabric had to be dyed at other
such houses are 3 meters wide by 60 meters long.locations as well.
The Old Quarter has a rich religious heritage. When theHang Thiec is the street of tinsmiths. The craftsmen
craftsmen moved from outlying villages into the capital,originally produced small tin cone-shaped tips which
they brought with them their religious practices. Theywere used to preserve the shape of the traditional
transferred their temples, pagodas and communalconical hats
houses to their new location. Each guild has one orBy the 18th century, the dye colors diversified. In the
two religious structures and honors its own patron18th-century work Notes About the Capital, the author
saint or founder. Therefore, on each street in the Oldwrote that "Hang Dao guild does dying work. It dyes
Quarter there is at least one temple. Now, many of thered as the color of blood, black as Chinese ink, and
old temples in the Old Quarter have been transformedother beautiful colors."
into shops and living quarters, but some of the oldIn the 19th century, Hang Dao was lined by about 100
buildings’ religious roots can still be recognized byhouses, of which only 10 or so were constructed of
the architecture of their roofs.bricks. The rest were of thatch. On the side of the
Although the old section of Hanoi is often called thestreet alongside the now filled-in Hang Dao Lake, the
"36 Old Streets," there are more than 36 actualfoundations of the houses have visibly sunk lower than
streets. Some researchers believe that the number 36the road.
came from the 15th century when there might haveBy the turn of this century, Indian textile merchants
been 36 guild locations, which were workshop areas,opened shops for trading silk and wool products
not streets. When streets were later developed, theimported from the West. This street now specializes in
guild names were applied to the streets. Othersready-made clothing.
attribute the 36 to a more abstract concept. TheDong Xuan Street / Market Street
number nine in Asia represents the concept of "plenty."This street originally belonged to two villages-the even
Nine times the four directions makes 36, which simplynumbered houses were occupied by the Nhiem Trung
means "many." There are now more than 70 streets invillage, and the odd numbered houses were occupied
the area.by the Hau Tuc village.
Some streets have achieved fame by their inclusion inThe Dong Xuan market, Vietnam’s oldest and
popular guidebooks. Han Gai Street offers silk clothinglargest market, occupies half of the street.
ready-made and tailored, embroidery, and silverRiver networks formed the economic hub of Hanoi by
products. Hang Quat, the street that formerly sold silkproviding a system of waterways which fed the city
and feather fans, now stuns the visitor by its brilliantlyand markets. Located at the confluence of the To Lich
colored funeral and festival flags and religious objectsand Red Rivers, the Dong Xuan market was once
and clothing. To Thinh Street connects the above twoone of the busiest urban areas in Southeast Asia.
and is still the wood turner’s street. Hang MaThe French required merchants to bring their goods
glimmers with shiny paper products, such as giftinside the fenced perimeter of the market in order to
wrappings, wedding decorations and miniature paperfacilitate tax collections. When the number of
objects to burn for the dead. Lan Ong Street is amerchants swelled, the market was enlarged. In 1889, a
sensual delight of textures and smells emanating fromstructure was built over it, and five gates were built
the sacks of herbal medicinal products: leaves, roots,leading to it. Each of the five market gates was used
barks, and powders.only for specified goods. In 1992, the market was
Let us turn now to nine of the lesser known streets inrenovated and a new facade erected.
the Old Quarter that possess a unique characterHang Mam Street
worth exploring.Hang Mam is the union of two old streets: an eastern
Hang Bac Streetoffshoot called Hang Trung and the original Hang Mam.
A majority of the street names in the Old QuarterThe name is derived from the various kinds of mam,
start with the word hang. Hang means merchandise oror fish sauces, that are produced and sold here, as
shop. The guild streets were named for their product,well as other sea products. The street was originally
service or location. Hang Bac, one of the oldest streetson the riverside, close to the day’s catch.
in Vietnam, dates from at least the 13th century. BacNuoc mam, or fish sauce, is made from fish that are
means silver, and appropriately, this street started as atoo small to be sold individually which are placed in clay
silver ingot factory under the reign of Le Thanh Tongvats with water and salt. Boiled water is poured over
(1469-1497). Village people, called the "Trau Khe silverthe fish and weights are placed on top of the mixture
casters," were brought into the capital to cast silverto compress it. The concoction distills for days, and the
bars and coins. After a ceremony to transfer theirresult is a clear amber juice that is rich in protein,
craft from their village of Trau Khe to Hanoi, they setvitamins and minerals. With aging, the fierce ammoniac
up two temples to honor the founders of their craft. Atodors of the fish become mellow, and like brandy, the
one communal house, the silver was molten andflavor improves. The first pressing, which is the
poured into molds. At the other communal house, theclearest and purest, is called nuoc mam nhi, or prime.
molds were further processed for delivery to theThe sauce was stored in barrels made on adjacent
Prime Minister. The crafters went to great lengths toHang Thung Street.
keep their methods secret to avoid counterfeitIn the 1940s, new specialties appeared on the street. A
products.small ceramics industry appeared along with those of
At the turn of the 18th century, the street took onmemorial stone etching, coffin, and tombstone
more varied functions. In addition to the casting of silvermanufacturers.
ingots, the street attracted more jewelry makers andMa May Street
money exchangers. Money exchangers thrived, sinceThis street also is a union of two old streets. Hang
in the old days, paper money was not used. Instead,May sold rattan products, and Hang Ma sold sacred
currency consisted of bronze and zinc coins and silverjoss (paper replicas of money, clothing, even stereo
ingots. When merchants needed a large amount ofsets) to burn for the dead. Ma is burned in front of the
money for business transactions, they wouldaltar of ancestors accompanied by prayers. Around
exchange the heavy metal bars on Hang Bac. Duringthe turn of the century, the streets became one: Ma
the French time it was called "Exchange Street."May.
Although paper currency was later used, the word forOn the edge of the lake, women in wide brimmed hats
it included the word bac.once sold armfuls of flowers to the French for a few
Hang Bac also has jewelers of different types:coins.
engravers, smelters, polishers, and gold-leaf makers.In the French time, this street was called "Black Flag
The first jewelry makers were the Dong Cac guild,Street" because the soldier Luu Vinh Phuc had his
which settled during the Le dynasty (1428-1788). Theyheadquarters here. Luu was the leader of the Black
founded a temple dedicated to three brothers whoFlags, a bandit unit operating around Hanoi in the late
learned their art in China in the 6th century, and who19th century. They were essentially pirates who made
are considered the patron saints of the Vietnamesea living robbing villagers and merchants. In the 1880s,
jewelry making profession.the Black Flags cooperated with the Vietnamese
There are several famous buildings on this street. InImperial Forces to resist the French who were
the communal house on Hang Bac, there is a stoneattempting to gain military control of Hanoi.
stele, built in 1783, telling about a Mandarin who forciblyIn the middle of the street is the Huong Tuong temple,
took over the communal house. The locals took him toestablished in 1450, which honors Nguyen Trung Ngan
court and won back their building. The Dung Tho(1289-1370), a governor of Thang Long, the former
Temple is dedicated to Chu Bi, a Taoist deity. At thename of Hanoi.
end of the French colonial period, this temple had beenHang Thiec Street
named Truong Ca, after a person who watched overHang Thiec is the street of tinsmiths. The craftsmen
the temple and served the best noodle soup. Oneoriginally produced small tin cone-shaped tips which
building on this street is the pride of contemporarywere used to preserve the shape of the traditional
history-the Chuong Vang (Golden Bell) Theater, whichconical hats. A neighboring street, Hang Non, made the
still hosts traditional Vietnamese theater performances.hats, and both streets comprised the Yen No hamlet.
The former traditional-venue theater, the To NhuHang Thiec Street also produced oil lamps, candle
(Quang Lac) Theater built in the 1920s, also is on thissticks, and opium boxes. Tin shops sold mirrors, which
street but has been transformed into apartments.they still do today, along with sheet metal, zinc, and
Hang Be Streetglass. The street echoes busily with the clanging of
In the mid-19th century, the guild of bamboo rafthammers against the sheet metal. Workers spread out
makers was located on this street outside the My Locon the sidewalk shaping metal storage boxes and
gate, one of the many sturdy gates to the city. The caiother objects to custom order.
mang raft consisted of 12 to 15 large bamboo polesHang Thung Street
lashed together by strips of green bamboo bark. TheirIn the old days, on this block inside the Dong Yen gate,
anterior was slightly raised by heating the wood, andbarrels were manufactured. The barrels were used
the aft was rigged with three quadrangular sails madefor storing and carrying water and fish sauce. The
of coarse linen dyed with extracts of sweet potatocommunal house and the temple of the barrel
skins.makers’ guild is located at 22 Hang Thung, but is
Bamboo rafts were sensible for Hanoi’s shallowhidden behind newer buildings. The street is shaded by
rivers, lakes and swamps, which can not provide solidthe leaves of the xoan tree which has a fluffy cream
anchorage or natural shelter from storms. The flatcolored cluster flower and bright red berries. The tree
design better weathered the seasonal typhoons thathas various English names: Margosa, Bead, or China
lash the northern part of Vietnam, and is betterBerry tree. In May, the tiny flowers fall to the ground
adapted to coastal and river fishing. The bamboo poleslike yellow confetti. The furrowed bark is often
from which the rafts were constructed were sold onescraped off by local residents, who dry and boil it to
block east on Hang Tre Street.make a medicinal infusion as a vermifuge.
Cau Go StreetThe Old Quarter is a precious legacy of Hanoi’s
Meaning "Wooden Bridge," Cau Go Street is locatedancient past, but the area is challenged by rapid
one block north of the Lake of the Restored Sword,changes.
and was in fact the location of a wooden bridge.Today, handicraft production is increasingly replaced by
About 150 years ago, the bridge crossed a thin streamrestaurants, repair shops, and mini hotels. Historic
of water connecting the Thai Cuc Lake with the Lakebuildings have become mass living spaces and schools
of the Restored Sword. Dyers from the neighboringas the population increases. Craft workers now
Silk Street set out their silk to dry or bleached theirconstitute nine percent of the neighborhood. Traders
fabric beside the bridge. Under the French occupation,make up 40 percent.
the lake and stream were filled as health measuresWith the new economic policies, a dramatic building
and to increase buildable land. The little wooden bridgeboom has begun, threatening the charm of the district.
became a regular street.Local, national, and international agencies are now
On the edge of the lake, women in wide brimmed hatsformulating plans to preserve the historic ambiance of
once sold armfuls of flowers to the French for a fewthe Old Quarter.