| In the early 13th century, the collection of tiny workshop | | | | coins. Today a flower market exists where the Cau |
| villages which clustered around the palace walls | | | | Go alley intersects with the main street. Other historical |
| evolved into craft cooperatives, or guilds. | | | | sites on Cau Go are the secret headquarters and |
| The Old Quarter began to acquire its reputation as a | | | | hiding place of the 1930-45 "Love the Country" |
| crafts area when the Vietnamese attained | | | | resistance movement. |
| independence in the 11th century and King Ly Thai To | | | | Cau Go today is a commercial street specializing in |
| built his palace there. In the early 13th century, the | | | | women’s accessories. |
| collection of tiny workshop villages which clustered | | | | Hang Dao Street |
| around the palace walls evolved into craft | | | | This street is one of Vietnam’s oldest streets. It |
| cooperatives, or guilds. Skilled craftsmen migrated to | | | | serves as a main axis running from north to south, |
| the Quarter, and artisan guilds were formed by | | | | cutting the Old Quarter in half. In the French Colonial |
| craftsmen originating from the same village and | | | | time, Hang Dao Street was a center for the trading of |
| performing similar services. Members of the guilds | | | | silk products. On the first and sixth days of the lunar |
| worked and lived together, creating a cooperative | | | | month, there were fairs for the sale of silk items. |
| system for transporting merchandise to the designated | | | | Shops also sold other types of fabric such as gauze, |
| streets in the business quarter. | | | | brocade, crepe, and muslin. Almost all the non-silk |
| Because inhabitants of each street came from the | | | | products were white. |
| same village, streets developed a homogeneous look. | | | | In the beginning of the 15th century, this street was the |
| Commoners’ homes evolved out of market stalls, | | | | location of the silk dyer guild from the Hai Hung |
| before streets were formed. Because storekeepers | | | | Province, which specialized in a deep pink dye. Dao, |
| were taxed according to the width of their storefront, | | | | the name of the street, refers to the pink of apricot |
| storage and living space moved to the rear of the | | | | blossoms, which are symbolic of the Vietnamese |
| buildings. Consequently, the long and narrow buildings | | | | Lunar New Year. The demand for this special color |
| were called "tube houses." Typical measurements for | | | | was so high that the fabric had to be dyed at other |
| such houses are 3 meters wide by 60 meters long. | | | | locations as well. |
| The Old Quarter has a rich religious heritage. When the | | | | Hang Thiec is the street of tinsmiths. The craftsmen |
| craftsmen moved from outlying villages into the capital, | | | | originally produced small tin cone-shaped tips which |
| they brought with them their religious practices. They | | | | were used to preserve the shape of the traditional |
| transferred their temples, pagodas and communal | | | | conical hats |
| houses to their new location. Each guild has one or | | | | By the 18th century, the dye colors diversified. In the |
| two religious structures and honors its own patron | | | | 18th-century work Notes About the Capital, the author |
| saint or founder. Therefore, on each street in the Old | | | | wrote that "Hang Dao guild does dying work. It dyes |
| Quarter there is at least one temple. Now, many of the | | | | red as the color of blood, black as Chinese ink, and |
| old temples in the Old Quarter have been transformed | | | | other beautiful colors." |
| into shops and living quarters, but some of the old | | | | In the 19th century, Hang Dao was lined by about 100 |
| buildings’ religious roots can still be recognized by | | | | houses, of which only 10 or so were constructed of |
| the architecture of their roofs. | | | | bricks. The rest were of thatch. On the side of the |
| Although the old section of Hanoi is often called the | | | | street alongside the now filled-in Hang Dao Lake, the |
| "36 Old Streets," there are more than 36 actual | | | | foundations of the houses have visibly sunk lower than |
| streets. Some researchers believe that the number 36 | | | | the road. |
| came from the 15th century when there might have | | | | By the turn of this century, Indian textile merchants |
| been 36 guild locations, which were workshop areas, | | | | opened shops for trading silk and wool products |
| not streets. When streets were later developed, the | | | | imported from the West. This street now specializes in |
| guild names were applied to the streets. Others | | | | ready-made clothing. |
| attribute the 36 to a more abstract concept. The | | | | Dong Xuan Street / Market Street |
| number nine in Asia represents the concept of "plenty." | | | | This street originally belonged to two villages-the even |
| Nine times the four directions makes 36, which simply | | | | numbered houses were occupied by the Nhiem Trung |
| means "many." There are now more than 70 streets in | | | | village, and the odd numbered houses were occupied |
| the area. | | | | by the Hau Tuc village. |
| Some streets have achieved fame by their inclusion in | | | | The Dong Xuan market, Vietnam’s oldest and |
| popular guidebooks. Han Gai Street offers silk clothing | | | | largest market, occupies half of the street. |
| ready-made and tailored, embroidery, and silver | | | | River networks formed the economic hub of Hanoi by |
| products. Hang Quat, the street that formerly sold silk | | | | providing a system of waterways which fed the city |
| and feather fans, now stuns the visitor by its brilliantly | | | | and markets. Located at the confluence of the To Lich |
| colored funeral and festival flags and religious objects | | | | and Red Rivers, the Dong Xuan market was once |
| and clothing. To Thinh Street connects the above two | | | | one of the busiest urban areas in Southeast Asia. |
| and is still the wood turner’s street. Hang Ma | | | | The French required merchants to bring their goods |
| glimmers with shiny paper products, such as gift | | | | inside the fenced perimeter of the market in order to |
| wrappings, wedding decorations and miniature paper | | | | facilitate tax collections. When the number of |
| objects to burn for the dead. Lan Ong Street is a | | | | merchants swelled, the market was enlarged. In 1889, a |
| sensual delight of textures and smells emanating from | | | | structure was built over it, and five gates were built |
| the sacks of herbal medicinal products: leaves, roots, | | | | leading to it. Each of the five market gates was used |
| barks, and powders. | | | | only for specified goods. In 1992, the market was |
| Let us turn now to nine of the lesser known streets in | | | | renovated and a new facade erected. |
| the Old Quarter that possess a unique character | | | | Hang Mam Street |
| worth exploring. | | | | Hang Mam is the union of two old streets: an eastern |
| Hang Bac Street | | | | offshoot called Hang Trung and the original Hang Mam. |
| A majority of the street names in the Old Quarter | | | | The name is derived from the various kinds of mam, |
| start with the word hang. Hang means merchandise or | | | | or fish sauces, that are produced and sold here, as |
| shop. The guild streets were named for their product, | | | | well as other sea products. The street was originally |
| service or location. Hang Bac, one of the oldest streets | | | | on the riverside, close to the day’s catch. |
| in Vietnam, dates from at least the 13th century. Bac | | | | Nuoc mam, or fish sauce, is made from fish that are |
| means silver, and appropriately, this street started as a | | | | too small to be sold individually which are placed in clay |
| silver ingot factory under the reign of Le Thanh Tong | | | | vats with water and salt. Boiled water is poured over |
| (1469-1497). Village people, called the "Trau Khe silver | | | | the fish and weights are placed on top of the mixture |
| casters," were brought into the capital to cast silver | | | | to compress it. The concoction distills for days, and the |
| bars and coins. After a ceremony to transfer their | | | | result is a clear amber juice that is rich in protein, |
| craft from their village of Trau Khe to Hanoi, they set | | | | vitamins and minerals. With aging, the fierce ammoniac |
| up two temples to honor the founders of their craft. At | | | | odors of the fish become mellow, and like brandy, the |
| one communal house, the silver was molten and | | | | flavor improves. The first pressing, which is the |
| poured into molds. At the other communal house, the | | | | clearest and purest, is called nuoc mam nhi, or prime. |
| molds were further processed for delivery to the | | | | The sauce was stored in barrels made on adjacent |
| Prime Minister. The crafters went to great lengths to | | | | Hang Thung Street. |
| keep their methods secret to avoid counterfeit | | | | In the 1940s, new specialties appeared on the street. A |
| products. | | | | small ceramics industry appeared along with those of |
| At the turn of the 18th century, the street took on | | | | memorial stone etching, coffin, and tombstone |
| more varied functions. In addition to the casting of silver | | | | manufacturers. |
| ingots, the street attracted more jewelry makers and | | | | Ma May Street |
| money exchangers. Money exchangers thrived, since | | | | This street also is a union of two old streets. Hang |
| in the old days, paper money was not used. Instead, | | | | May sold rattan products, and Hang Ma sold sacred |
| currency consisted of bronze and zinc coins and silver | | | | joss (paper replicas of money, clothing, even stereo |
| ingots. When merchants needed a large amount of | | | | sets) to burn for the dead. Ma is burned in front of the |
| money for business transactions, they would | | | | altar of ancestors accompanied by prayers. Around |
| exchange the heavy metal bars on Hang Bac. During | | | | the turn of the century, the streets became one: Ma |
| the French time it was called "Exchange Street." | | | | May. |
| Although paper currency was later used, the word for | | | | On the edge of the lake, women in wide brimmed hats |
| it included the word bac. | | | | once sold armfuls of flowers to the French for a few |
| Hang Bac also has jewelers of different types: | | | | coins. |
| engravers, smelters, polishers, and gold-leaf makers. | | | | In the French time, this street was called "Black Flag |
| The first jewelry makers were the Dong Cac guild, | | | | Street" because the soldier Luu Vinh Phuc had his |
| which settled during the Le dynasty (1428-1788). They | | | | headquarters here. Luu was the leader of the Black |
| founded a temple dedicated to three brothers who | | | | Flags, a bandit unit operating around Hanoi in the late |
| learned their art in China in the 6th century, and who | | | | 19th century. They were essentially pirates who made |
| are considered the patron saints of the Vietnamese | | | | a living robbing villagers and merchants. In the 1880s, |
| jewelry making profession. | | | | the Black Flags cooperated with the Vietnamese |
| There are several famous buildings on this street. In | | | | Imperial Forces to resist the French who were |
| the communal house on Hang Bac, there is a stone | | | | attempting to gain military control of Hanoi. |
| stele, built in 1783, telling about a Mandarin who forcibly | | | | In the middle of the street is the Huong Tuong temple, |
| took over the communal house. The locals took him to | | | | established in 1450, which honors Nguyen Trung Ngan |
| court and won back their building. The Dung Tho | | | | (1289-1370), a governor of Thang Long, the former |
| Temple is dedicated to Chu Bi, a Taoist deity. At the | | | | name of Hanoi. |
| end of the French colonial period, this temple had been | | | | Hang Thiec Street |
| named Truong Ca, after a person who watched over | | | | Hang Thiec is the street of tinsmiths. The craftsmen |
| the temple and served the best noodle soup. One | | | | originally produced small tin cone-shaped tips which |
| building on this street is the pride of contemporary | | | | were used to preserve the shape of the traditional |
| history-the Chuong Vang (Golden Bell) Theater, which | | | | conical hats. A neighboring street, Hang Non, made the |
| still hosts traditional Vietnamese theater performances. | | | | hats, and both streets comprised the Yen No hamlet. |
| The former traditional-venue theater, the To Nhu | | | | Hang Thiec Street also produced oil lamps, candle |
| (Quang Lac) Theater built in the 1920s, also is on this | | | | sticks, and opium boxes. Tin shops sold mirrors, which |
| street but has been transformed into apartments. | | | | they still do today, along with sheet metal, zinc, and |
| Hang Be Street | | | | glass. The street echoes busily with the clanging of |
| In the mid-19th century, the guild of bamboo raft | | | | hammers against the sheet metal. Workers spread out |
| makers was located on this street outside the My Loc | | | | on the sidewalk shaping metal storage boxes and |
| gate, one of the many sturdy gates to the city. The cai | | | | other objects to custom order. |
| mang raft consisted of 12 to 15 large bamboo poles | | | | Hang Thung Street |
| lashed together by strips of green bamboo bark. Their | | | | In the old days, on this block inside the Dong Yen gate, |
| anterior was slightly raised by heating the wood, and | | | | barrels were manufactured. The barrels were used |
| the aft was rigged with three quadrangular sails made | | | | for storing and carrying water and fish sauce. The |
| of coarse linen dyed with extracts of sweet potato | | | | communal house and the temple of the barrel |
| skins. | | | | makers’ guild is located at 22 Hang Thung, but is |
| Bamboo rafts were sensible for Hanoi’s shallow | | | | hidden behind newer buildings. The street is shaded by |
| rivers, lakes and swamps, which can not provide solid | | | | the leaves of the xoan tree which has a fluffy cream |
| anchorage or natural shelter from storms. The flat | | | | colored cluster flower and bright red berries. The tree |
| design better weathered the seasonal typhoons that | | | | has various English names: Margosa, Bead, or China |
| lash the northern part of Vietnam, and is better | | | | Berry tree. In May, the tiny flowers fall to the ground |
| adapted to coastal and river fishing. The bamboo poles | | | | like yellow confetti. The furrowed bark is often |
| from which the rafts were constructed were sold one | | | | scraped off by local residents, who dry and boil it to |
| block east on Hang Tre Street. | | | | make a medicinal infusion as a vermifuge. |
| Cau Go Street | | | | The Old Quarter is a precious legacy of Hanoi’s |
| Meaning "Wooden Bridge," Cau Go Street is located | | | | ancient past, but the area is challenged by rapid |
| one block north of the Lake of the Restored Sword, | | | | changes. |
| and was in fact the location of a wooden bridge. | | | | Today, handicraft production is increasingly replaced by |
| About 150 years ago, the bridge crossed a thin stream | | | | restaurants, repair shops, and mini hotels. Historic |
| of water connecting the Thai Cuc Lake with the Lake | | | | buildings have become mass living spaces and schools |
| of the Restored Sword. Dyers from the neighboring | | | | as the population increases. Craft workers now |
| Silk Street set out their silk to dry or bleached their | | | | constitute nine percent of the neighborhood. Traders |
| fabric beside the bridge. Under the French occupation, | | | | make up 40 percent. |
| the lake and stream were filled as health measures | | | | With the new economic policies, a dramatic building |
| and to increase buildable land. The little wooden bridge | | | | boom has begun, threatening the charm of the district. |
| became a regular street. | | | | Local, national, and international agencies are now |
| On the edge of the lake, women in wide brimmed hats | | | | formulating plans to preserve the historic ambiance of |
| once sold armfuls of flowers to the French for a few | | | | the Old Quarter. |