| Hemp fiber has been used by mankind to make eco | | | | -Spinning/Weaving the fiber into Yarn |
| clothes since before recorded history. It is currently | | | | -Cleaning/Softening |
| thought that hemp is the oldest cultivated plant in the | | | | -Dyeing/Finishing |
| world with uses dating back to the stone age. Bits of | | | | Centuries old traditional eco-friendly methods of |
| hemp fabric have been found dating back to about | | | | mechanical hemp processing are still used in countries |
| 8,000 B.C. revealing the oldest example of human | | | | such as Romania and Hungary. Modern methods |
| industry. Fiber imprints have been found in pottery | | | | include chemical rather than mechanical processes |
| shards in both China and Taiwan dating back an | | | | which are faster, less labor intensive and ultimately less |
| estimated 10,000 years. Archeologists believe that, in | | | | expensive. Unfortunately, there are manufacturers out |
| addition to flax, hemp has been weaved since the | | | | there who are more interested in profits and as a |
| Neolithic period right through to the middle ages. Hemp | | | | result opt for the chemical methods as opposed to |
| has a more recent history as well in a variety of | | | | protecting the health of the consumer and our |
| applications (including an important role in early | | | | environment. |
| America) and has been a very valuable crop leading | | | | The process of separating the bast fibers from the |
| up to the modern era. | | | | stalk is called "retting". The organic methods of |
| While the fiber is one of the most valuable parts of the | | | | separation are both natural and mechanical. The retting |
| hemp plant (commonly referred to as Bast) used in the | | | | process breaks down pectin and lignin, the substances |
| creation of textiles, industrial hemp has a wide range of | | | | that glue the fibers to the stem core. Two natural |
| uses including but not limited to paper, cordage, bio-fuel, | | | | retting techniques are dew and water retting. Both |
| health food and biodegradable plastics. While truly a | | | | methods use a bacterial action to break down the glue, |
| remarkable plant, the purpose of this article is to | | | | the former aided by dew or rain where as the later |
| examine the use of hemp fiber in the manufacturing of | | | | takes the bundled hemp and floats it in water to loosen |
| textiles and ultimately clothing. We will also look at the | | | | the fiber from the stem.In dew retting, stalks are first |
| sustainability of hemp as a crop but highly encourage | | | | cut in to 12-18" lengths and are then left in the moist |
| you to research and explore some of the other roles | | | | fields. In order for the stalks to dry, they are then |
| this important plant plays. You will undoubtedly be led | | | | racked together every few days followed by bailing |
| into an eye-opening and wondrous path regarding | | | | when drying and retting is complete. The dew retting |
| hemp's many uses and colorful history. | | | | process takes approx. 2-3 weeks to finish based on |
| Crop Sustainability: | | | | weather conditions. In water retting, the stalks are |
| Unlike cotton, which accounts for approximately 50% | | | | soaked for approx. 20 days to loosen the fiber. This |
| of all chemicals (pesticides, herbicides, etc.) used in | | | | method produces a higher quality fiber but is costly and |
| American agriculture today, hemp requires virtually | | | | if the water is not disposed of properly can pollute the |
| none. Hemp is naturally resistant to most pests and | | | | body of water used in the process. In both methods, |
| grows very densely. As a result, it does not need | | | | the stems must also be monitored to avoid excessive |
| chemicals having practically no weed or insect | | | | degradation. |
| enemies. It has been noted that when grown in | | | | A seemingly primitive labor intensive mechanical |
| rotation, pests in future crops are actually reduced. In | | | | process is called scutching Once the stems are |
| addition, the plant is an excellent source of oxygen | | | | removed and washed, they are beaten to remove the |
| production. With each growth cycle the soil is renewed | | | | soft tissue. This is followed by drying so that only the |
| returning from 60-70% of the nutrients it takes. Its long | | | | fibers remain. More modern mechanical methods use |
| roots aerate soil for the benefit of future crops, | | | | steam and specially designed machinery on site to |
| remove toxins and prevent soil erosion as well. As a | | | | separate the fiber from the hurd (the pulp by-product |
| crop, hemp requires little to no fertilizer and grows | | | | after fiber is removed). In eastern Europe the primary |
| quickly and effortlessly in moderate climates. From a | | | | means of processing rely on traditional organic |
| cost perspective, hemp is less expensive to farm | | | | methods including new cleaner biologically-based |
| because of its minimal growth requirements. Canadian | | | | enzyme technology. In contrast, China, the worlds |
| hemp farmers are earning 10X the revenue per acre | | | | leading producer of hemp fabric uses chemical |
| than American grain farmers making hemp a viable | | | | methods of processing. |
| alternative to crops experiencing reduced demand. | | | | Spinning hemp fiber in to yarn which is then weaved or |
| Perhaps tobacco farmers should take notice! | | | | knitted into garments is essentially the same for hemp |
| Compared to cotton or flax, hemp is considered a | | | | processed by chemical or organic means. The only |
| high-yield crop producing significantly more fiber per | | | | real difference between the two is the fiber length. |
| square foot and with less water requirements. When | | | | Organic fibers are generally longer whereas chemically |
| grown on the same land, hemp will produce twice the | | | | processed hemp becomes "cottonized" and tends to |
| amount of fiber as cotton and six times that of flax. It | | | | have short fiber. The spinning equipment may vary as |
| would take four acres of trees to yield the same | | | | a result but the process remains same. |
| amount of fiber as a mere one acre of hemp. In other | | | | Organic cleaning and softening methods and |
| words, hemp can yield 4X the amount of fiber of an | | | | machinery are currently being researched and |
| average size forest. What an extremely productive | | | | developed by ecologically-minded hemp textile |
| natural fiber! Trees on the other hand require 50 to | | | | manufacturers. This enables the fabric to remain |
| 500 years to grow were as hemp can yield three to | | | | organic and chemical free as well as retain its |
| four times annually (approx. 100 day life cycle). Hemp | | | | softness and durability, a characteristic that is often |
| cultivation could significantly decrease if not completely | | | | diminished using chemical means. The natural light color |
| stop the destruction of our forests! | | | | of hemp fiber prevents the need to use toxic chlorine |
| Hemp Fiber: | | | | bleach. If lightening is absolutely necessary, an |
| Up until the 1920's, approx. 80% of all garments were | | | | eco-friendly non-toxic alternative is hydrogen peroxide. |
| made from hemp textiles. Even the now famous Levi | | | | The environmental friendliness involving the dyeing and |
| Strauss used a light weight hemp canvas for its original | | | | finishing of hemp textile varies greatly around the |
| pair of jeans. Since that time, hemp has been used to | | | | world. In the US, there are laws in place which regulate |
| make many types of garments and accessories. Big | | | | the types of dyes and dyeing methods being used, |
| names such as Patagonia, Adidas, Calvin Klein, Giorgio | | | | especially in CA where many dye houses exist. The |
| Armani and Ralph Lauren have recently marketed | | | | dye itself is another consideration. The toxic content of |
| products made from hemp. | | | | the dye as well as the disposal of excess dye and |
| The valuable bast fibers, which give the plant its | | | | chemicals determine the measure of harm done to the |
| strength, are contained within the hollow wood-like | | | | environment. The proper disposal of the waste is of |
| core of the plants stalk under the outer most bark. | | | | the utmost importance in order to minimize any |
| Grown densely packed (up to 150 plants per square | | | | potentially detrimental environmental effects. |
| meter), tall plants suitable for the production of the long | | | | Hemp garments can be dyed or left in a "natural" |
| primary bast fibers are the result. The hemp fibers run | | | | state, which means no dye at all. When left un-dyed, |
| the length of the plant anywhere from 3 to 15 ft | | | | garments come in varying shades of beige which is |
| long.The primary fibers average 8" in length and can | | | | the natural color of the hemp fibers after processing. |
| be spun or woven into a fine linen-like type fabric. | | | | An obvious consideration for a sustainable garment |
| These fibers are now commonly blended with other | | | | business would be to choose dyes which are the last |
| fibers such as flax, cotton, wool, linen or silk.A variety | | | | harmful to the environment (such as low impact and |
| of tactile experiences can be created by weaving | | | | fiber-reactive dyes made from natural components |
| hemp as intricately as lace, smooth as silk or as | | | | that are water soluble containing no heavy metals). In |
| coarse as burlap. Modern hemp blends created today | | | | addition, it is essential to work with dye houses that |
| for the garment industry are cool to touch and | | | | use such dyes and employ strict ecological safety |
| comfortable to wear. While hemp garments are often | | | | measures as well. Equally important is to eliminate or at |
| comparatively more expensive than those made from | | | | least moderate the amount of synthesized chemicals |
| cotton due to higher processing costs and limited | | | | used in the finishing process in an effort to increase |
| quantities, its superiority is clear. | | | | the fabrics overall sustainability. Finishing can involve |
| One of the most commonly known attributes about | | | | anything from applying compounds to improve |
| hemp fiber is its exceptional tensile strength which is | | | | smoothness, stiffness and strength to processes that |
| 3X that of cotton. In addition, the fiber is naturally | | | | change surface appearance and texture. Eco-friendly |
| antimicrobial and resistant to ultraviolet light as well as | | | | methods of both dyeing and finishing have been |
| mold, mildew, heat and insects which makes it | | | | developed. |
| excellent for outdoor wear. The fiber is not only many | | | | There are chemical processes that can be used at |
| times more durable than cotton but warmer, softer | | | | each stage of turning fiber into fabric and fabric into |
| and more water absorbent. This also makes hemp | | | | garments. We encourage transparency at every level |
| more absorbent to dyes and thus less prone to fading. | | | | from the field to the factory so merchants and |
| Because of hemp's superior insulating properties, it | | | | consumers alike can make the most educated choices |
| keeps you warm in the winter and cool in the summer. | | | | possible regarding the products they wish to either sell |
| Hemp fibers actually soften with each washing without | | | | or wear. The process of growing is only half the |
| fiber degradation. Hemp production uses significantly | | | | equation when creating healthy organic and/or |
| less chemicals than cotton which makes it more | | | | sustainable garments. The various stages of |
| sustainable and naturally more suitable for people with | | | | processing must be done using methods that take into |
| chemical sensitivities. The fiber is completely | | | | consideration the health of both the environment and |
| biodegradable, holds its shape as good as polyester | | | | the consumer. |
| but also has breathability. The fibers, which are | | | | Conclusion: |
| naturally light in color, require little or no bleach. | | | | Hemp can be considered in many ways nothing short |
| Fiber to fabric: | | | | of miraculous. This sustainable and easily renewable |
| While it is legal in the US to own hemp products such | | | | resource is used for food, clothing, energy and shelter |
| as clothing and foods derived from the plant, it is illegal | | | | (yes shelter, hemp is also used in making building |
| to cultivate it here. This makes the US the only | | | | materials). It's no wonder why so many people and |
| industrialized nation on earth that does not allow its | | | | organizations have become passionate about |
| production based on a law that does not make the | | | | spreading the message of hemp as a world saving |
| distinction between industrial hemp from marijuana. All | | | | plant! Supporting the growing hemp industry by |
| hemp fabric is therefore imported. The primary | | | | purchasing apparel made from hemp can be |
| countries supplying hemp to the US include China, | | | | considered by some a revolutionary act. I'm sure our |
| Hungary, Thailand, Romania and Chile with production | | | | founding fathers would agree, after all George |
| coming from other nations including Australia, England, | | | | Washington and Thomas Jefferson sowed hemp on |
| Canada and New Zealand as well. | | | | their plantations! Make a statement and set an |
| The basic process of creating hemp fabric for | | | | example by choosing hemp garments as part of your |
| garments is four fold: | | | | business and/or wardrobe today! |
| -Separation of the fiber | | | | |