| UFACTURING PROCESS | | | | thing. |
| The finest and most impressive ties are intrinsically | | | | THE JACQUARD FABRIC |
| unique. The seven-fold tie is one of the purest designs | | | | Jacquard fabrics are woven on a pattern-control loom. |
| used in quality necktie construction. Consisting of just | | | | They have to be cut individually to ensure that the |
| the silk material folded in on itself to form the body and | | | | pattern motifs do not coincide with the tie ends, since |
| finish of the tie. It is an aficionados dream. The subtle | | | | this heightens the risk of their fraying out. |
| feel and drape are un-matched. These ties however | | | | Individual cutting also guarantees the precise placing of |
| are very expensive and beyond the reach of most | | | | striped patterns: a detail that the connoisseur will |
| individuals. | | | | appreciate. The cloth for mass production is prepared |
| The tie we see most commonly these days is still a | | | | on machines that slice through more than 100 layers at |
| hand crafted involving at least 40 separate stages to | | | | one time. |
| form the final result. Most of these steps are done by | | | | BASIC ASSEMBLYthe tie begins in two pieces. Which |
| hand regardless of the size of production. | | | | are hemmed on the bias in one of the few mechanical |
| THE QUALITY | | | | operations in the hand-made necktie process. |
| The Quality of the silk is the first consideration to the | | | | The joint at the neck, or piecing, is pressed flat to |
| creation of a great necktie. You often hear the term | | | | eliminate neckband bulk where is would inconvenience |
| Italian silk and make the common assumption | | | | the wearer. |
| that the silk is from Italy. This is not the case. Italy does | | | | INTER-LINING AND SILK FINISHING |
| not produce Silk. Asia is the worlds supplier of fine silk, | | | | Good lining, expertly cut, is the foundation of the |
| Thai silk being some of the best in the world. | | | | superior necktie. It has been traditionally made of pure |
| The precision of the cut, the stitching and the quality | | | | wool cut on the bias. These days as we have |
| and the cut of the interlining are also very important. | | | | mentioned its more commonly brushed polyester. |
| What is commonly found in most ties is a weighted | | | | Apart from forming a firm foundation, it ensures that |
| brushed polyester usually between 250-450 grams. | | | | the tie retains its shape. The silk shell is then wrapped |
| The higher the number the thicker and stiffer the feel | | | | around the lining and pinned in place every few inches, |
| of the tie. The thickness of the silk fabric varies little. | | | | in an operation comparable to basting in tailoring. |
| All of these facets play a big part in the quality of the | | | | SLIP STITCH AND FINISH |
| finished product as well as the cost. | | | | In this crucial step, the main seam which forms the |
| THE CUTthe tie fabric has to be cut on the bias for it | | | | tube of the tie is completed by hand. Resilient |
| to work well as a tie material. What this means is that | | | | construction is dependant apon loose, even stitching. |
| the fabric has to be cut at a 45 degree angle to the | | | | The slip-stitch, as it is called, is sewn firmly onto the |
| grain of the weave. This makes the material flexible | | | | front and loose at the back to maintain elasticity. This is |
| and allows a person to tie the tie with ease and helps | | | | a little masterpiece of artistry. |
| to maintain it’s shape. Very important if you | | | | A form is inserted to ensure precisely shaped ends. |
| want to look good in your tie. Any variation to the | | | | Pressing is done by hand to avoid a flat dead look. |
| angle would result in the tie loosing it’s straight | | | | There you have it. A brief exploration of haw a tie is |
| fall and after use, loosing it’s shape. Not a good | | | | made. |