| THE MANUFACTURING PROCESS | | | | in the tie loosing its straight fall and after use, loosing its |
| The finest and most impressive ties are intrinsically | | | | shape. Not a good thing. |
| unique. The seven-fold tie is one of the purest designs | | | | THE JACQUARD FABRIC |
| used in quality necktie construction. Consisting of just | | | | Jacquard fabrics are woven on a pattern-control loom. |
| the silk material folded in on itself to form the body and | | | | They have to be cut individually to ensure that the |
| finish of the tie. It is an aficionados dream. The subtle | | | | pattern motifs do not coincide with the tie ends, since |
| feel and drape are un-matched. These ties however | | | | this heightens the risk of their fraying out. |
| are very expensive and beyond the reach of most | | | | Individual cutting also guarantees the precise placing of |
| individuals. | | | | striped patterns: a detail that the connoisseur will |
| The tie we see most commonly these days is still a | | | | appreciate. The cloth for mass production is prepared |
| hand crafted involving at least 40 separate stages to | | | | on machines that slice through more than 100 layers at |
| form the final result. Most of these steps are done by | | | | one time. |
| hand regardless of the size of production. | | | | BASIC ASSEMBLY |
| THE QUALITY | | | | The tie begins in two pieces. Which are hemmed on |
| The Quality of the silk is the first consideration to the | | | | the bias in one of the few mechanical operations in the |
| creation of a great necktie. You often hear the term | | | | "hand-made" necktie process. The joint at the neck, or |
| "Italian silk" and make the common assumption that the | | | | piecing, is pressed flat to eliminate neckband bulk |
| silk is from Italy. This is not the case. Italy does not | | | | where is would inconvenience the wearer. |
| produce Silk. Asia is the worlds supplier of fine silk, Thai | | | | INTER-LINING AND SILK FINISHING |
| silk being some of the best in the world. | | | | Good lining, expertly cut, is the foundation of the |
| The precision of the cut, the stitching and the quality | | | | superior necktie. It has been traditionally made of pure |
| and the cut of the interlining are also very important. | | | | wool cut on the bias. These days as we have |
| What is commonly found in most ties is a weighted | | | | mentioned its more commonly brushed polyester. |
| brushed polyester usually between 250-450 grams. | | | | Apart from forming a firm foundation, it ensures that |
| The higher the number the thicker and stiffer the feel | | | | the tie retains its shape. The silk shell is then wrapped |
| of the tie. The thickness of the silk fabric varies little. All | | | | around the lining and pinned in place every few inches, |
| of these facets play a big part in the quality of the | | | | in an operation comparable to basting in tailoring. |
| finished product as well as the cost. | | | | SLIP STITCH AND FINISH |
| THE CUT | | | | In this crucial step, the main seam which forms the |
| The tie fabric has to be cut on the bias for it to work | | | | tube of the tie is completed by hand. Resilient |
| well as a tie material. What this means is that the | | | | construction is dependent on the loose, even stitching. |
| fabric has to be cut at a 45 degree angle to the grain | | | | The slip-stitch, as it is called, is sewn firmly onto the |
| of the weave. This makes the material flexible and | | | | front and loose at the back to maintain elasticity. This is |
| allows a person to tie the tie with ease and helps to | | | | a little masterpiece of artistry. A form is inserted to |
| maintain its shape. Very important if you want to look | | | | ensure precisely shaped ends. Pressing is done by |
| good in your tie. Any variation to the angle would result | | | | hand to avoid a flat dead look. |