Jamdani' - Fabrics From The Singing Looms Of Bengal

A legend says that Emperor Aurangzeb went into fitbluish black, grey and off white background hues.
of rage when, one day he saw his daughter wearingThese patterns were in vogue and were much sought
nothing. On his rebuke, she replied that she is wearingafter during the Mughal period.
not one, but seven dresses covering her body. Such isThe traditional color of blue known as nilambari is dyed
the fineness of the Indian hand woven fabrics.in indigo. Designs such as toradar meaning a bouquet
are preserved as their family skills, and are passed
Walking through the narrow streets of Bengal, one candown through generations. Thus, the designs and
hear the magical spell of looms, the rhythmic singing ofcolors used in making the fabric differ from family to
shuttles making the musical 'tak-tak'. This sound keepsfamily, and have their own individuality.
reverberating in the Indian clothing culture for the pastFor weaving the fabric, the elementary pit loom is
2000 years. Hand woven fabrics have been infamousused. The needle is made from buffalo horn or
for its culture and virtues since time immemorial.tamarind wood. The fabrics are further dyed using
Despite globalization and technology, this craft has itsvarious process such as resist dyeing, tie dyeing, and
own evergreen place in the mind of cultural lovers.other methods. Various natural materials are used in
Ethical fabrics from Bengal:this process. Shellac is used for red, turmeric for yellow
Jamdani is one of the most beautiful textiles ofhue, pomegranate rinds for green, and iron shaving and
Bengal.  Jamdani means, a vase of flowers. Historyvinegar to bring black color.
of this fabric dates back to the early ages, whereinGlobal Market for Jamdani Fabrics:
mentions of the fabric are seen scripted inAnd looms constitute the biggest cottage industry of
Arthashashtra written by Kautilya. The glory of thisIndia, engaging millions of looms in weaving the
fabric can also be seen mentioned in the writings oftraditional beauty of the countries heritage in cotton, silk
Chinese, Italian, and Arab travelers. No wonder, greatand other natural fibres. One can hardly see a village in
Roman emperors paid remarkable prices for this IndianBengal, where weavers do not exist. The region in and
cotton.around Dhaka is infamous for this wonder fabric.
Basically this fabric is of unbleached cotton yarn.This exquisitely woven delicate cotton muslin fabric is
Alluring designs are created in an innovative way in thisadmired to be one of the best among the skilled
fabric using bleached cotton yarn so as to give a lightcraftsmen of South Asia. Due to the skills and
and dark effect. Weaving methods resemble thedexterity involved in the making of this fabric, generally,
tapestry work where small shuttles of gold and silverthey are of high price. Despite its expensive price tags,
colored threads are passed through the weft.demand for this fabric never declines.
Designs and Colors:Mostly used in the making of saris, this fabric is also
The weaving pattern combines intricate surfaceused for making scarves, handkerchiefs, and many
designs supplemented with delicate floral sprays. Sarisother creative applications. Outfits of this fabric has
are woven using this method are called as terchha.become an essential part of a women's wardrobe;
The part of the sari which goes over the shoulder isespecially the Bengalis. This craft is a fusion of the
decorated with motifs called jhalar. The most popular2000 year old tradition of Bengal, with the blend of
design is known as panna hazaar meaning a thousandtechniques from the Middle East. Due to its quality and
emeralds. Phulwar is yet another pattern used inexquisiteness, it is rightly called as woven with thread
Jamdani fabrics, which is normally created in black,of winds.