| For thousands of years, the three main European dye | | | | flower spikes are the origin of this plant's other name |
| plants were, and still are, woad, weld and madder. Blue | | | | dyer's rocket and they attract bumble bees and other |
| can be extracted from fresh woad leaves whilst the | | | | insects. Start harvesting the leaves and flower stalks |
| flower spikes and leaves of weld yield neon yellow | | | | from July onwards, whilst the plant is flowering but is |
| and the fleshy roots of madder produce a brick red. | | | | still green. Weld dye usually produces an instant neon |
| Various shades of green can be obtained by | | | | yellow but that depends on the chemical composition |
| over-dyeing woad and weld, whilst purples and browns | | | | of the water used in the dye pot. If your yellow turns |
| result from over-dyeing woad and madder and it is no | | | | out dull, the addition of a pinch of calcium carbonate |
| surprise that weld over-dyed with madder produces | | | | (chalk) can brighten up the colour dramatically. |
| orange. All these colours are light and wash fast. | | | | Madder (Rubia tinctoria) Madder produces one of the |
| Woad (Isatis tinctoria) Woad is native to the Middle | | | | most light-fast of natural dyes and has been in use for |
| East and the Mediterranean from which it spread into | | | | thousands of years. Archaeologists found traces of |
| Europe and where it has been in use as a dye plant | | | | madder dye in linen in Tutankhamen's tomb and in |
| since Neolithic times. Textiles dyed with woad were | | | | wool discovered in Viking burial grounds. Madder is a |
| found in Viking ship burials like the Oseberg ship in | | | | long lived perennial of the family Rubiaceae, the same |
| Norway and the Celtic chieftains graves in Hallstatt, | | | | family as coffee and gardenia. The fleshy swollen |
| Austria. The famous Bayeux tapestry has several | | | | madder roots produce a red dye which is sensitive to |
| shades of blue dyed with woad. Woad is a brassica | | | | temperature and to the mineral content of the water. |
| and therefore closely related to broccoli and cabbage. | | | | You need to be patient if you want to harvest your |
| In the first year, it forms a low-growing cluster of dark | | | | own madder, as the roots take three years to grow |
| blue-green leaves which resemble spinach. The yellow | | | | to a reasonable thickness. After you have waited that |
| flowers, which appear in May, have a wonderful | | | | long, you will feel like you are digging up buried treasure. |
| fragrance and insects love them, whilst the black | | | | However, if you are in a hurry, using madder extract |
| seeds are winged, resembling small tongues. Woad is | | | | will speed up the process enormously. |
| a biennial plant and grows for two years before dying | | | | What is in it for me? Learning more about dye plants |
| down. The leaves are harvested for dye production in | | | | will help you better appreciate fragments of textiles in |
| the first year only, because they have little or no colour | | | | museums, as well as medieval tapestries and |
| when they reach the second year. Extracting the | | | | costumes. When you look at famous paintings you will |
| famous blue pigment is a long but exciting process | | | | start to notice the colours of people's clothes and think |
| which must have looked akin to magic in the past. | | | | about the dyes used to produce them. Recreating an |
| Weld (Reseda luteola) Weld is a non-invasive and | | | | ancient technique, like dyeing wool with traditional |
| attractive plant which can grow wild on waste ground, | | | | natural dyes, forges a bond between you and the |
| but would not look out of place in the back garden. It is | | | | artisans of the past. You will find great satisfaction in |
| a biennial of the family Resedaceae, and belongs to | | | | knitting and wearing a scarf dyed with woad, weld and |
| the same genus as the mignonette. Weld can grow up | | | | madder, the same colours used by pharaohs, Celts, |
| to five feet in height and the long spikes with small pale | | | | Vikings and medieval kings and queens. |
| yellow flowers start appearing in early June. The | | | | |