| Dyeing of textiles with natural colours has a long | | | | Soak the wool in the warm water, then add the |
| unbroken history stretching back through human | | | | mordant, bring it up to simmering point and simmer for |
| civilizations. Natural dyes produce soft warm colours | | | | about 1 hour. |
| that are especially well suited to woollen yarn, | | | | - Remove the wool from the solution and rinse well. |
| particularly if you're planning to knit a garment using | | | | You can then dry it in a warm dark place and keep it |
| traditional patterns where the slight variations in colour | | | | in the refridgerator for up to 3 weeks, or proceed to |
| will enhance that home crafted look. | | | | the dyeing stage immediately. |
| Natural dyes fall into three categories - vegetable (eg | | | | Usually you will put your natural dyes into enough cold |
| indigo), animal (cochineal from beetles) and mineral | | | | water to cover them and heat them slowly. Break |
| (ochre). Many can be obtained from your own yard or | | | | your materials into small pieces before adding them to |
| those of neighbours, gathered in the wild or bought | | | | the water. The amount you'll need will depend upon the |
| inexpensively. Some are adjective dyes which means | | | | depth of colour you're seeking, but a good start for |
| they need a mordant to absorb and fix the colour, | | | | experimentation with most plant material is 4 oz per 1 |
| substantive dyes which include lichens and walnut | | | | lb of wool. |
| husks do not. The most common mordants are alum, | | | | - Simmer the plant material for about 1 hour or until |
| iron, tin and tannic acid, each of which will produce a | | | | most of the colour has leached out. |
| different colour which will vary depending on the fibre | | | | - Strain through muslin. |
| you're dyeing. Some mordants are toxic, so you should | | | | - Warm 1 gallon water in a clean pan, add the dyestuff |
| wear an apron and gloves when using them. Dyes, | | | | and stir well. |
| mordants and natural unbleached wool can all be | | | | - Add the wool, stir gently and then simmer until the |
| obtained from good craft suppliers. | | | | wool has obtained the colour you want. Remember |
| You'll only need simple equipment - most of which you | | | | that it will lighten when washed and dried, so at this |
| probably already have in your kitchen. A large stainless | | | | stage it should be darker than you want. |
| steel or enamel pan, kitchen scales, measuring spoons, | | | | - Each subsequent batch of wool in the same dye |
| a smooth stick or wooden spoon for stirring and some | | | | solution will require approximately twice as long to |
| muslin. | | | | reach the same colour as the dye becomes |
| - Divide your wool into skeins of manageable size (or | | | | exhausted. |
| weighed amounts if you need particular colours for a | | | | - Rinse the wool when you remove it from the |
| pattern) and tie them very loosely. Unless your wool | | | | dyebath, using water of the same temperature, then |
| has been supplied ready to dye you'll need to wash it | | | | cooling it gradually as you continue to rinse until the |
| first in mild, neutral soap. | | | | water is clear. |
| - The next step is to mordant your wool. Dissolve 1 | | | | - Gently squeeze the wool dry or blot it with a towel, |
| tablespoon of alum and 1/2 cream of tartar in a cup of | | | | then hang on a washing line until it's dry. |
| warm water, then add to 1 gallon of warm water. | | | | |