| The accolades tell it all: "I had a terrific and very | | | | compound where all witnessed the quaint and primitive |
| inspiring time in Oaxaca. Your knowledge of the culture | | | | production methods, and then imbibed several varieties |
| and region introduced us to so many interesting people, | | | | of mezcal with chasers of lime and orange wedges, |
| all willing to share their passion, whether it was for | | | | and sal de gusano (the salt, chile and ground up |
| pottery, wood carving, frothy chocolate, the best | | | | gusano worm mixture), together with quesillo and |
| moles or natural dyes" [Elizabeth Baird]. | | | | ricotta-like queso. Then to the family's brand new |
| Elizabeth Baird, one of the foremost Canadian culinary | | | | state-of-the-art facility where Enrique explained his |
| icons of our time, was a participant in the May, 2010, | | | | new method of mezcal production. The process |
| Oaxaca Culinary Tour. So was prolific cookbook | | | | dramatically improves quality control while retaining the |
| author and columnist Rose Murray, who endorsed a | | | | richest qualities of mezcal produced the traditional way |
| copy of her seminal work, A Taste of Canada, A | | | | - only smoother. |
| Culinary Journey, with similar praise: "Thank you for | | | | Dinner at La Catrina de Alcalá provided a nice |
| sharing your vast knowledge of Oaxaca with us. We | | | | contrast to earlier events and tastings in the day, with |
| know it through your eyes." | | | | classy Chef Juan Carlos on hand to introduce each |
| If the foregoing is any indication of the success of this | | | | dish. Tour participants were so taken with the selection |
| most recent tour, then the thought of what's in store | | | | that towards the end of the evening when asked if |
| for participants in future, similarly organized Oaxaca | | | | they wanted to move on to dessert, or perhaps try a |
| culinary events, should titillate anyone interested in | | | | venison dish, almost in unison each opted for the latter. |
| Mexican gastronomy - chefs and foodies alike. | | | | Friday |
| While numbers were small (May is when most | | | | Cooking classes by Pilar Cabrera are always highly |
| Americans and Canadians are content to stay close | | | | enjoyable and educational, beginning with a visit to |
| to home, stow their winter attire, and begin gardening), | | | | Mercado de La Merced for buying fresh produce, |
| organizers provided the 8 - 10 participants in each of | | | | through the cooking phase, and finally indulging in the |
| the week's daily activities with all that the tour | | | | fruits of one's labor. The entirely of the class has been |
| promised, and more: cooking classes with Pilar | | | | described elsewhere by me, so no more will be noted. |
| Cabrera and Susana Trilling, dining at renowned | | | | Each tour participant thereafter had a free afternoon |
| Oaxacan restaurants Casa Oaxaca, Los Danzantes, | | | | to explore more of downtown, rest, and then dine at a |
| La Olla and La Catrina de Alcalá, and what impressed | | | | recommended restaurant. |
| the most, getting out into the villages and learning the | | | | Saturday |
| secrets of local recipes through hands-on instruction | | | | After a relatively relaxing Friday it was back on the |
| from indigenous natives - in their kitchens and over | | | | road for another day of touring. At the handmade |
| their open hearths and comals. | | | | knife and cutlery workshop of Apolinar Aguilar, the |
| Background to the Oaxaca Culinary Tour | | | | group watched the master work his wonders, heating |
| Internationally acclaimed native Oaxacan chef Pilar | | | | recycled metals with the aid of a primitive yet |
| Cabrera Arroyo spent the month of September, 2009, | | | | effective stone and clay oven, then forging with only a |
| working her magic in Toronto, both as guest chef at | | | | mallet striking the red-hot metal over an anvil, and finally |
| several restaurants and invited instructor at a | | | | the all-so-critical tempering stage. |
| prominent cooking school. It had been arranged through | | | | Knife blades are polished to a brilliant shine without |
| the efforts of Toronto food writer and researcher | | | | lacquer or nickel. Purchasers on this day had an |
| Mary Luz Mejia of Sizzling Communications, and | | | | opportunity to have inscriptions engraved on the blades |
| several others willing to dedicate their time and effort | | | | of knives they purchased. In anticipation of the culinary |
| to ensure a successful month-long event. | | | | tour, Apolinar had prepared a selection of paring |
| Once the framework of the tour had been decided, | | | | knives, a turkey carving set, a cake cutting ensemble, |
| Chef Pilar was invited by the Government of Mexico | | | | and bread knives. In addition to the more traditional |
| to represent Oaxacan cuisine at the Toronto | | | | Bowie hunting knives, swords and machetes, he also |
| Harbourfront Centre Hot & Spicy Food Festival's Iron | | | | had on hand more unusual collector pieces such as |
| Chef competition (as it turned out, she also agreed to | | | | knives with deer antler handles and letter openers with |
| judge the festival's Emerging Chef event) which took | | | | blade undulations of the Indonesian genre. |
| place around the same time as the tour. | | | | In the tiny village of San Antonino participants were |
| In Toronto Chef Pilar met the likes of Elizabeth Baird | | | | provided with an opportunity to select from the finest |
| (who judged the iron chef event and adjudicated | | | | imaginable hand-embroidered blouses and dresses - |
| alongside Pilar at the emerging chef competition), Chef | | | | cotton, silk, and blends. |
| Vanessa Yeung (who cooked with Pilar at the cooking | | | | Lunch was in the rustic homestead of the Navarro |
| school and dined with her at one of the private dinner | | | | family, the sisters and mother known for their fine |
| parties), and a host of prominent food writers and | | | | work on the back strap loom, and brother Gerardo for |
| critics, as well as chefs (including Chef de Cuisine | | | | his watercolors. But the main reason for stopping in |
| Jason Bangerter of Auberge du Pommier) - most of | | | | Santo Tomás Jalieza was to dine with the family in |
| whom had no previous exposure to Oaxacan cuisine. | | | | their Eden-like surroundings, and witness their |
| In true Oaxacan fashion Pilar warmly and sincerely | | | | preparation of tasajo on a small hibachi-style grill, and all |
| invited virtually everyone she met to come visit | | | | the steps required to make sopa de guias, a broth |
| Oaxaca. But who would have ever thought that tour | | | | made of all the parts of the zucchini plant, and a small |
| organizers would immediately begin receiving inquiries | | | | piece of corn for added starch. The welcoming nature |
| from diners at the various venues, chefs, and media | | | | and all-round hospitality of the family was as |
| personnel, about traveling to Oaxaca to gain more | | | | impressive as their simple yet immaculately kept rural |
| in-depth knowledge about Oaxaca's longstanding | | | | home and grounds. |
| reputation for culinary greatness. After all, the tour was | | | | The tour day concluded with a visit to the workshop |
| intended to merely provide an introduction to Oaxacan | | | | of Jacobo Angeles, master carver and painter of |
| cuisine. It succeeded in whetting the appetites of | | | | alebrijes, for a demonstration (the particulars and |
| Canadians, for much more. | | | | details of which are once again available online as part |
| Those who ultimately participated in the Oaxaca tour | | | | of a lengthy dissertation about woodcarving in |
| included aficionados of Mexican cuisine, food writers, | | | | Oaxaca). However what tourists to the region never |
| chefs and restauranteurs. Some booked the entire | | | | get to experience, and what Jacobo had arranged for |
| tour well in advance, while others only caught wind of | | | | the group, was a lesson in making aguas frescas of |
| the week's events after they had planned their | | | | limón and jamaica (hibiscus flower), and the |
| Oaxacan vacation, and accordingly were permitted to | | | | pre-Hispanic drink tejate, known as the |
| take part in cooking lessons, day tours and evening | | | | "drink-of-the-gods." |
| dining. | | | | After a late afternoon rest back at Las Bugambilias |
| Oaxaca Culinary Tour Showcased a Variety of Food | | | | Bed & Breakfast, the group welcomed the leisurely |
| Venues and Other Dimensions of Culture | | | | evening walk to Casa Oaxaca, purportedly the best |
| While a theme tour has its raison d'etre, it should not | | | | high end restaurant in Oaxaca. Unfortunately on this |
| be overly restrictive in its events so as to blind | | | | night chef / owner Alejandro Ruíz was somewhat |
| participants to what else a region has to offer - and in | | | | preoccupied entertaining a group of visiting chefs from |
| this case the impact of other dimensions of culture | | | | diverse Latin American cities, so in this writer's opinion |
| upon a people's cuisine. In Oaxaca there is certainly a | | | | the experience was somewhat disappointing. Word |
| broad enough diversity of restaurants, food markets, | | | | has it that for the next culinary tour the organizers |
| cooking styles and levels of sophistication, to keep | | | | might pass on Casa Oaxaca unless an |
| foodies thoroughly enthralled for weeks. But it's the | | | | acknowledgement of the shortcomings and an |
| unique and varied cultures, and the melding of New | | | | assurance of better next time are both forthcoming. |
| World and Old World ingredients and cooking methods, | | | | Each and every participant in a culinary tour of |
| to which these tour operators also sought to expose | | | | Oaxaca should expect and receive nothing but the |
| their clients. | | | | best, of course subject to unforeseen circumstances. |
| For this culinary tour, participants learned as much | | | | Sunday |
| about availability of and regional variation in meats, | | | | The penultimate day of the Oaxaca Culinary Tour |
| cheeses and produce (and their cultural significance), | | | | provided the broadest diversity of experiences |
| as they did about staples such as moles, tlayudas, | | | | imaginable. The group began at the rug making village |
| chocolate, tamales and mezcal. It was all achieved | | | | of Teotitlán del Valle, but not merely for a weaving |
| through imparting an in-depth understanding of | | | | and dying demonstration. Rocio Mendoza, one of the |
| traditions, through chatting and learning from people at | | | | daughters-in-law of Casa Santiago owners Don |
| all stations of life. At one end of the continuum were | | | | Porfirio and Doña Gloria, with her unwavering |
| the most humble of villagers who welcomed the group | | | | warmth and comforting smile welcomed the tour |
| into their homes, to make chocolate by pureeing | | | | group into the extended family household for a lesson |
| roasted cacao beans, cinnamon and almonds using a | | | | in the traditional methods of making both hot chocolate |
| primitive grinding stone (metate), and to make tamales | | | | and tamales de amarillo, the ritual dish served at |
| by folding corn leaves over masa, mole amarillo and | | | | certain town fiestas. |
| chicken. And at the other end were the | | | | Both the women and men of the household were |
| European-trained chefs who explained each dish upon | | | | present to answer questions and help out. Tour group |
| its arrival table from their modernly equipped kitchens. | | | | members to a number were made to feel more |
| Oaxaca Culinary Tour Daily Events | | | | welcomed than one could think possible. Each had a |
| One chef arrived in Oaxaca a day early, enabling her | | | | chance to take over the task of grinding toasted |
| to meet with organizers in an informal setting, learning | | | | cacao beans into a hot velvety paste. Matriarch Gloria |
| about and indulging at a Oaxaca culinary institution, | | | | gave a hands-on lesson on all the steps required to |
| Tlayudas on Libres, where locals gather between 9 | | | | prepare her special tamales, assisting each participant |
| p.m. and 5 a.m. for their favorite snacks grilled directly | | | | in learning how to place and fold ingredients into a corn |
| on and over charcoal: a folded, oversized tortilla | | | | leaf, and then ever so carefully stack the batch of |
| stuffed with melted Oaxacan string cheese (quesillo), | | | | tamales into a steaming hot clay container (tamalero) |
| bean purée, lettuce, tomato, depending on one's | | | | heated over firewood. Once all was cooked, and after |
| sensibilities a thin layer of asiento (pork fat); and choice | | | | a traditional "salud" over small glasses of mezcal, each |
| of chorizo (sausage), tasajo (beef) or cecina (pork). | | | | indulged in the fruits of his or her labor with members |
| For ardent foodies, a tiny sample of marinated pig's | | | | of the Santiago family: hot chocolate with sweet rolls |
| feet is required. And for the rest, a hot, corn-based | | | | on the side for dipping, and a plateful of piping hot |
| drink of atole or champurrado is non-negotiable, | | | | tangy tamales de amarillo. Goodbyes were particularly |
| especially during the wee hours of the morning. | | | | difficult after the establishment of relationships based |
| An American doing his Masters in Nutrition arrived two | | | | upon a commonality of purpose - the mentoring and |
| days earlier, using the time to explore Oaxaca's centro | | | | learning about culinary traditions in Teotitlán del Valle. |
| histórico (downtown historic center) including its quaint | | | | Two hours in the Sunday Tlacolula market is pretty |
| colonial buildings and food and craft markets. | | | | well required when a group of food enthusiasts is |
| Another participant stayed on a day later, after the | | | | involved; especially when organizers have special |
| rest has departed. A local organizer graciously offered | | | | relationships with vendors so as to enable tourists to |
| to chauffer her to one of Oaxaca's richest sights | | | | ask questions and take photographs at will. What Pilar |
| known as the San Agustín Center for The Arts, to | | | | did not cover in her Oaxaca market tour leading up to |
| see a modern ceramics exhibit housed in a | | | | her class, the organizers ensured was explained in |
| spectacular lush mountain setting. And then for last | | | | detail in the course of the visit to Tlacolula. Traditional |
| minute gift purchases he drove her to Atzompa, a | | | | market drinks of chilacayota and pulque were |
| village specializing in traditional Oaxacan green glazed | | | | sampled. Members purchased decorative gourds, |
| pottery. | | | | wooden spoons, embroidered aprons and colorful table |
| Wednesday | | | | coverings, and of course chiles to take back home. |
| Most participants had arrived by Wednesday, late | | | | The aroma of chicken grilling on open flames and |
| afternoon, in time for Pilar Cabrera's walking tour of | | | | steaming caldrons of barbequed mutton and goat filled |
| downtown sights. This enabled group members to gain | | | | the air. The pageantry of Zapotec women in their |
| some perspective on the magic of Oaxaca and to | | | | native village dress going about their business buying, |
| begin planning to how they might want to spend the | | | | selling and trading, impressed all. And the ability of |
| leisure hours built into the tour. | | | | group members to have all their questions answered, |
| Dinner was at Oaxacan institution La Olla, Pilar's own | | | | sample foodstuffs and drinks without trepidation, take |
| restaurant. The large candlelit table on the roof of the | | | | their fill of photos, and wander freely while soaking it all |
| restaurant provided a special view of Oaxaca at night. | | | | up, provided one of many trip highlights. |
| [For analysis and critique of the food served at these | | | | The quaint open-air eatery known as El Tigre was a |
| more upscale establishments, I'll leave it to the food | | | | stark contrast to the earlier market scene, but just as |
| writers and critics on the tour who are better | | | | welcome, in the nature of a well deserved respite. |
| note-takers and possess greater objectivity and a | | | | Each member of the group was able to question |
| much more refined palate than this writer.] | | | | comedor owner Sara about salsa preparation, the |
| Thursday | | | | disinfecting of fresh produce, and cooking techniques |
| The morning began with a visit to Tlapanochestli, the | | | | and challenges where every menu item is prepared |
| research station, museum and teaching facility devoted | | | | fresh, over a flame on the grill or comal. Once again, a |
| to understanding cochineal (cochinilla), the tiny insect | | | | review of El Tigre is available online. The eatery was |
| which has played an integral part in the history of | | | | selected so as to advance one of the organizers' |
| Oaxaca because of its unique quality; when dried and | | | | goals of ensuring as diverse a culinary experience as |
| crushed it yields a strong red dye, which with the | | | | possible. |
| addition of lime juice and or baking soda changes to | | | | The tour day concluded with a visit to the picturesque |
| tones of orange, pink and purple. Of particular interest | | | | mountain setting known as Hierve el Agua. The site |
| for tour participants was its application as a natural | | | | consists of mineral deposit "water falls," and bubbling |
| colorant for restaurant foods. While sampling a | | | | calcium and magnesium-rich springs feeding two pools |
| refreshing gelatin / water / sugar based dessert | | | | of water suitable for a safe, refreshing swim. Most |
| colored with cochineal, our foodies had an opportunity | | | | took the opportunity to cool off - and perhaps reap the |
| to see familiar grocery store products dyed with the | | | | benefit of the legendary curative properties of the |
| insect (Campari, Danone Yoghurt, Campbell and Knorr | | | | water - while others were content to sit in the shade, |
| soups, make-up and lipstick) and briefly discussed the | | | | chat about the day's events, and of course take |
| sensitive issue of adequacy of ingredient labeling. | | | | photos. |
| Then off to San Bartolo Coyotepec in the comfy | | | | After the filling breakfast at Las Bugambilias, then hot |
| 18-seater van equipped with bucket seats and A/C. | | | | chocolate with sweet rolls and tamales at Casa |
| Don Valente Nieto, son of the famed ceramicist | | | | Santiago, followed by drink samplings in Tlacolula, and |
| Doña Rosa, provided an upbeat, informative and | | | | lunch at El Tigre, botanas (appetizer plates) and drinks |
| entertaining demonstration of the methods used by his | | | | were the order of the evening, at Los Danzantes, |
| parents and his family members today, in fashioning | | | | without any doubt the Oaxaca restaurant with the |
| the well-known folk art form known as barro negro | | | | best ambiance by a long shot. |
| (black pottery). Tour members can now rightly claim | | | | Monday |
| that they saw the same demo that Don Valente | | | | No visit to Oaxaca, be it for a culinary tour or |
| provided to Jimmy Carter and Nelson Rockefeller, | | | | otherwise, would be complete without a guided tour of |
| who's photos alongside Doña Rosa and Don | | | | the most important and magestic pre-Hispanic ruin in all |
| Valente grace the showroom walls. | | | | of the State of Oaxaca, the 2,000-year-old Zapotec |
| The humble abode and workshop of Armando | | | | site known as Monte Albán. After a brief sit-down |
| Lozano, sculptor and master jeweler of hand-made | | | | and opportunity to quench the thirst, tour participants |
| bronze necklaces, earrings and bracelets, provided the | | | | were shuttled to Susana Trilling's cooking school to |
| first opportunity for the group to see how most | | | | make mole chichilo. Once again, Ms. Trilling's class has |
| Oaxacans live, and eke out a modest existence. The | | | | been noted elsewhere by the writer. |
| contrast between the quality workmanship of the | | | | Group members were welcomed to conclude their |
| family, and its lifestyle, was remarkable, overshadowed | | | | visit to Oaxaca by gathering at an event hall that |
| only by the welcoming nature of the Maestro's | | | | evening to view a folkloric celebration of Oaxaca's |
| daughter-in-law who offered the jewelry for sale. | | | | diversity of dance and music traditions known as the |
| The final two touring stops of the day were directly | | | | Guelaguetza. But to a number each decided to pass |
| devoted to food and drink. Lunch was at the unique | | | | on the idea after such a full itinerary. Instead, they |
| roadside eatery, Caldo de Piedra, where chef César | | | | welcomed the chance to finish the tour in a much |
| prepared a tomato and herb based broth which he | | | | more casual and relaxed setting, over drinks and |
| then poured into a large half gourd for each diner. To | | | | conversation at the hillside home of one of the tour |
| each he then added one's choice of either fresh red | | | | organizers, sitting on the open terrace and reliving the |
| snapper, a healthy compliment of jumbo shrimp, or a | | | | week's events with the fond memories. |
| combination of the two. Red hot rocks from an open | | | | Future Culinary Tours in Oaxaca |
| flame were then placed in each gourd, and individual | | | | Culinary vacations in Oaxaca have been done before, |
| meals were thusly cooked, the rocks causing the broth | | | | and will no doubt continue into the distant future. This |
| to boil and fish to poach. Only large, hand-made tortillas | | | | tour format, however, was unique for its diversity of |
| from the comal and quesadillas amply filled with | | | | experiences and the care taken by organizers to |
| mushrooms and squash blossoms were needed to | | | | ensure that the expectations of all participants - |
| compliment the meal, of course along with large | | | | seasoned chefs, media personnel specializing in the |
| pitchers of freshly squeezed orange juice spiked with | | | | culinary arts and gastronomy, and aficionados of |
| soda water (naranjadas). | | | | Mexican cuisine - were met, or better yet exceeded. |
| Oaxaca is known for its mezcal (mescal), so what | | | | If the current spate of commentaries regarding the |
| better way to have an introduction to the spirit than to | | | | success of the tour and level of participant satisfaction |
| head to Matatlán, World Capital of Mezcal, and learn | | | | is an accurate gauge, then no doubt there will be |
| from a producer with from a five generation pedigree | | | | future tours, perhaps on a bi-annual basis, with each |
| of palenqueros (mezcal producers). Enrique Jiménez | | | | succeeding Oaxaca Culinary Tour improving on the |
| welcomed the tour into his parents' traditional family | | | | performance of the previous. |