Process for Adding Value to Denim

The word Denim is believed to have evolved from aimmersion method, the tint would be all over. However,
French fabric known as "serge de Nîmes." Theif a localized area is the target, a spray method is
cloth from Nîmes was a twill woven cloth madeused. In either case the tinting, as the term signifies, is
of a silk-wool blend; however; the fabric mix of thisdone very lightly to achieve a particular cast, either
cloth casts some doubt on this origin since Denim hasoverall or localized. If indigo does not change tone
always been made from cotton. Since the mid-1950'swould look like a print with a sharp boundary. When
Denim Garments has become a mainstay in thetone changes fad gradient, the effect looks more
wardrobe of American youth. Denim represents aaesthetically appealing and is considered desirable. The
rugged cotton twill textile, in which the weft passestone-change should be gradual and not abruptive.
under two or more warp fibers, producing the familiarSIGNIFICANCE OF OZONE-FASTNESS IN INDIGO
diagonal ribbing identifiable on the reverse of the fabric,GARMENTS
which distinguishes denim from cotton duck. DenimOxidizing agents have a property of attacking
was traditionally colored blue with indigo dye to makechromophoric group of the dyestuff and
blue jeans though jean represents a different, lighterdestroying-discharging the color. Potassium
cotton textile. Although Denim jeans are favoritespermanganate is a well-known chemical extensively
among the American youth, it has changed style andused for discharge of indigo in denim garments.
significance throughout the years. Globally, DenimHowever, potassium permanganate is used as and
designers are experimenting with fabric and garmentwhen discharge is required and the ultimate purpose is
details including embellishments in order to add value tovalue-addition. Ozone is another strong oxidizing agent,
its garments. New add-ons are being incorporated inwhich could discharge indigo in denim-garments. The
the form of patches, appliqué, rhinestones andfolds in folded-denim garment otherwise have relatively
glitter.greater exposure to atmospheric ozone than the rest
The process of adding value to this legendary outfitterof the garment, which is protected by virtue of
enhanced from time and time by devising some newgarments being stacked. This results into localized
methods such as:discharge of indigo at the folded marks. There are
BY CHANGING THE COLOR AND METALLICinorganic as well as organic ozone-seavenger, which
SPARKLE SPRAY ON DENIM GARMENTSprotect the indigo in denim garments from the attack
Value-addition substantially allows higher earnings inof ozone and hence control the value-loss. There are
relation to money spent on impartation of the value. Itmany buyers who ask for denim fabrics/garments
may be either functional or aesthetic. Functionalfinishes with ozone seavenger.
value-addition may not function more effectively onEFFECTS OF PERLITE-CELLULASE TREATMENT
the garment. In many cases, the garment may not lookON DENIM GARMENTS
effectively, if it is not treated for value-addition.Perlite being used in denim washing is a
Aesthetic value-addition is a cosmetic treatment andhigh-temperature expanded version of natural mineral
ornamentation. It attracts the attention and you canin granule form of 1.5 mm size. The perlite treatment
see the appealing results at the earliest. This kind ofcombined with enzyme treatment for softness, sheen,
value-addition is governed by latest "trends" andand mildly abraded surface. Perlite can reduce the
consumer preferences. The color spray gives anenzyme dosage and enhance abrasion. However, the
aesthetically appealing 'cast', which gives aabrasion is quite mild, which gets with pumice stones
"consumer-liking" value.and only cellulose. Depending upon the degree of
SOFTENERS SHOULD BE USED FOR BULKY FEELabrasion needed, the cellulase - perlite treatment could
ON DENIM GARMENTStake 60-120 minutes using liquor ratio and some 100 gm
"Bulky" or "flat and firm" has relation to aesthetics andperlite per kg of garment. Since perlite dust causes,
personal liking as there is no dearth of finishes for suchsensitization and allergies when inhaled, some standard
attributes. These finishes are generally appliedprotective-care needs to be taken during manufacture,
wet-on-wet at the end of garment washing bypacking, storage, transportation, material handling and
exhaust method. It is, therefore, imperative to select ausage. Further perlite needs to be looked first before
softener/lubricant, which is exhaustible for the bestcellulose and other chemicals and then the machine run
performance of the garment. It is also important tofor minutes with water.
maintain whilst applying the right conditions such as pH,TINTING WITH WHITE DISCHARGE EFFECT ON
temperature and exhaustion time in order to transferDENIM GARMENTS
the maximum softener/lubricant onto garment fromThe standard route to blasting/discharging/tinting is
the treating liquor. Such products could be cationicquite elaborate, in the light of three effects to be
softener, exhaustible polyethylene, micro-amino siliconeimparted on the same garment. There have been
for suppleness, macro amino silicone for surfaceshort cuts, which may be right/wrong/ingenious. If tinting
smoothness and so on. One needs to prepare an atlasis done on blasted/discharged areas, it obviously
of fabrics to assess the degree of bulk with the typeremains a spray method. However, if the tinting is
of softeners and their concentrations. Further someoverall, it follows the dyeing route. The process starts
combination of softeners may show enhanced effecton gray garment being hand blasted followed by
immediately.desizing and biopolishing. After drying the garment,
APPROACHES TO MILD WASHING EFFECTS ONtint-spray is given followed by air/machine drying and
SULPHUR-DYED DENIM GARMENTSfinishing. For tinting by dyeing method, the biopolished
Garment washing may affect the whiteness level ofgarment can straight away go for tinting wet-on-wet
your garments, as they can look dull or yellow afterfollowed by finishing and drying.
processing. Most garment washers add whitener toIn case of white discharge tinting the route would start
the process to ensure a bright white finished product.with desizing-biopolishing on gray garment, peroxide
Make sure to determine any costs involved and factorbleaching after biopolishing being optional. After drying
them into your product costing. There are manythe garment, a potassium permanganate spray is
special effects, such as weathering, stone washing,given to areas where white discharge is aimed at.
acid washing and distressing that can be produced byAfter air-drying for about 10-15 minutes, a neutralization
garment washers. These effects being very popularstep consisting of provide-acetic acid is given which is
have their own drawbacks. They are costly, havefollowed by hot and cold rinses. In case of spray tinting
higher fallout rates, and are generally rougher on thethe garment will have to be dried first, whereas for
fabrics. Talk to your garment washer about prices andoverall tinting, dyeing the method could be followed
what to expect of the process you choose to do.wet-on-wet. Finally the finishing and drying would
TINT DENIM-GARMENTS WITHOUT CHANGINGcomplete the process.
THE TONE OF INDIGOGETTING REVERSE EFFECT ON DENIM IN
Tinting is achieved by application of the direct/reactiveDISCHARGE PROCESS
dyes. In case of direct dyes, the second applicationIn spray process, first apply neutralizer where you
would be that of dye-fixing agent for an adequatewant the resist effect and thereafter, spray potassium
fastness. In case of reactives, the fixing chemical goespermanganate on applied portion and its surrounding
along with the dyestuff. After the application, thearea. Then, neutralize the garment to remove
treated garment is dried in the air or in a tumble drierpotassium permanganate. It gives a halo effect to
for adequate fastness. If tinting were done bydenim garments.