| Idriss I founded Fez, Morocco, around 789 on the | | | | centuries to soak the hides after hair removal. The |
| banks of the River Fez. His son, aptly named Idriss II, | | | | soaking solution-if not pigeon dung-is obtained from the |
| built another town around 808. A decade later, | | | | pomegranate or mimosa tree. The hides are then |
| hundreds upon hundreds of Muslim families-some | | | | softened even more with water rinsing and finally |
| refugees-moved here from as far off as Cordoba | | | | placed in fat solutions. |
| and Tunisia. | | | | Anywhere, including rooftops, sidewalks and |
| This influx formed a territorial protectorate and soon | | | | surrounding foothills, makes for makeshift drying racks. |
| paved the way for Islam in Morocco. Almost three | | | | Just as you can see the hides laid out to dry, so you |
| hundred years later, the Almohads built a wall, uniting | | | | can whiff the fetor for several blocks. |
| the two cities. Fez knew no boundaries, booming to an | | | | The hides are often dyed using natural pigments from |
| economic, spiritual and cultural nucleus of North Africa. | | | | minerals, rocks and plants. Today, though, chemical |
| The economic potential of Fez was perhaps the most | | | | dyes are used just the same. You can't really tell the |
| advantageous. Today, craftsmen conduct business in | | | | difference either. If you're shopping in the many souks |
| much the same way as yesteryear. The Fez | | | | or leather shops, the shop owners might tell you the |
| tanneries, by and large, is one of the best examples of | | | | truth, or might simply tell you what you want to hear. A |
| this retained artistry. Tanning is the process of turning | | | | trusted tour guide or tour operator can distinguish |
| animal hides-namely goat, sheep, cow and camel-into | | | | natural versus chemical dyes. |
| soft leather. | | | | The tannery is found in the old Fez, now a UNESCO |
| The hides of the above mentioned animals first must | | | | World Heritage Site. Restoration and rebuilding have |
| have their flesh and hair removed. The hides are then | | | | given Fez the much-needed face lift seen today. You |
| placed into large vats-hearsay voices say it's diluted, | | | | must walk through the mazes in order to see the |
| acidic pigeon excrement-then soaked in vegetable dye | | | | tanneries, as the passageways, tunnels, and narrow |
| twice over. After rinsing and drying the hides, they are | | | | streets make driving out of the question. Come on a |
| ready to be dyed into a number of various colors. | | | | Morocco tour and visit the contemporary yet antiquity |
| Tanners have used the vats-which can be seen from | | | | ambiance of Fez. |
| the terraces and local rooftops around them- for | | | | |