Textile manufacturing

Processing of Cotton				Mercerising
Cotton Manufacturing Processes (after Murray 1911)				Main article: Mercerized cotton
Bale Breaker				A further possibility is mercerizing during which the
Blowing Room				fabric is treated with caustic soda solution to cause
Willowing				swelling of the fibres. This results in improved lustre,
Breaker Scutcher				strength and dye affinity. Cotton is mercerized under
Batting				tension, and all alkali must be washed out before the
Finishing Scutcher				tension is released or shrinkage will take place.
Lapping				Mercerizing can take place directly on grey cloth, or
Carding				after bleaching.
Carding Room				Many other chemical treatments may be applied to
Silver Lap				cotton fabrics to produce low flammability, crease
Combing				resist and other special effects but four important
Drawing				non-chemical finishing treatments are:
Slubbing				Singeing
Intermediate				Main article: Singe#Textiles
Roving				Singeing is designed to burn off the surface fibres
Fine Roving				from the fabric to produce smoothness. The fabric
Mule Spinning				passes over brushes to raise the fibres, then passes
Ring Spinning				over a plate heated by gas flames.
Spinning				Raising
Reeling				Another finishing process is raising. During raising, the
Doubling				fabric surface is treated with sharp teeth to lift the
Winding				surface fibres, thereby imparting hairiness, softness
Bundling				and warmth, as in flannelette.
Bleaching				Calendering
Winding				Main article: Calender
Warping				Calendering is the third important mechanical process,
Cabling				in which the fabric is passed between heated rollers to
Sizing/Slashing/Dressing				generate smooth, polished or embossed effects
Gassing				depending on roller surface properties and relative
Weaving				speeds.
Spooling				Shrinking (Sanforizing)
Cloth				Main article: Sanforization
Yarn (Cheese)- - Bundle				Finally, mechanical shrinking (sometimes referred to as
Sewing Thread				sanforizing), whereby the fabric is forced to shrink
Cotton is the world's most important natural fibre. In the				width and/or lengthwise, creates a fabric in which any
year 2007, the global yield was 25 million tons from 35				residual tendency to shrink after subsequent laundering
million hectares cultivated in more than 50 countries.				is minimal.
There are five stages				Dyeing
Cultivating and Harvesting				Main article: Dyeing
Preparatory Processes				Finally, cotton is an absorbent fibre which responds
Spinning				readily to colouration processes. Dyeing, for instance, is
Weaving				commonly carried out with an anionic direct dye by
Finishing				completely immersing the fabric (or yarn) in an
Cultivating and harvesting				aqueous dyebath according to a prescribed procedure.
Cotton is grown anywhere with long, hot dry summers				For improved fastness to washing, rubbing and light,
with plenty of sunshine and low humidity. Indian cotton,				other dyes such as vats and reactives are commonly
gossypium arboreum, is finer but the staple is only				used. These require more complex chemistry during
suitable for hand processing. American cotton,				processing and are thus more expensive to apply.
gossypium hirsutum, produces the longer staple				Printing
needed for machine production. Planting is from				Main article: Textile printing
September to mid November and the crop is				Printing, on the other hand, is the application of colour in
harvested between March and May. The cotton bolls				the form of a paste or ink to the surface of a fabric, in
are harvested by stripper harvesters and spindle				a predetermined pattern. It may be considered as
pickers, that remove the entire boll from the plant. The				localised dyeing. Printing designs on to already dyed
cotton boll is the seed pod of the cotton plant,				fabric is also possible.
attached to each of the thousands of seeds are fibres				Economic, environmental and political consequences of
about 2.5 cm long.				cotton manufacture
Ginning				The growth of cotton is divided into two segments i.e.
The seed cotton goes in to a Cotton gin. The cotton				organic and genetically modified. . Cotton crop provides
gin separates seeds and removes the "trash" (dirt,				livelihood to millions of people but its production is
stems and leaves) from the fibre. In a saw gin, circular				becoming expensive because of high water
saws grab the fibre and pull it through a grating that is				consumption, use of expensive pesticides, insecticides
too narrow for the seeds to pass. A roller gin is used				and fertiliser. GM products aim to increase disease
with longer staple cotton. Here a leather roller captures				resistance and reduce the water required. The organic
the cotton. A knife blade, set close to the roller,				sector was worth $583 million. GM cotton, in 2007,
detaches the seeds by drawing them through teeth in				occupied 43% of cotton growing areas..
circular saws and revolving brushes which clean them				The consumption of energy in form of water and
away.				electricity is relatively high, especially in processes like
The ginned cotton fibre, known as lint, is then				washing, de-sizing, bleaching, rinsing, dyeing, printing,
compressed into bales which are about 1.5 m tall and				coating and finishing. Processing is time consuming. The
weigh almost 220 kg. Only 33% of the crop is usable				major portion of water in textile industry is used for
lint. Commercial cotton is priced by quality, and that				wet processing of textile (70 per cent). Approximately
broadly relates to the average length of the staple, and				25 per cent of energy in the total textile production like
the variety of the plant. Longer staple cotton (2 in to 1				fibre production, spinning, twisting, weaving, knitting,
in) is called Egyptian, medium staple (1 in to in) is called				clothing manufacturing etc. is used in dyeing. About 34
American upland and short staple (less than in) is called				per cent of energy is consumed in spinning, 23 per
Indian.				cent in weaving, 38 per cent in chemical wet
The cotton seed is pressed into a cooking oil. The				processing and five per cent in miscellaneous
husks and meal are processed into animal feed, and				processes. Power dominates consumption pattern in
the stems into paper.				spinning and weaving, while thermal energy is the
Issues				major factor for chemical wet processing.
Cotton is farmed intensively and uses large amounts				Processing of other vegetable fibres- other processes
of fertiliser and 25% of the worlds insecticide. Native				Flax
Indian variety were rainwater fed, but modern hybrids				Main article: Flax
used for the mills need irrigation, which spreads pests.				Flax is a bast fibre, which means it comes in bundles
The 5% of cotton-bearing land in India uses 55% of all				under the bark of the Linum usitatissimum plant. The
pesticides used in India. Before mechanisation, cotton				plant flowers and is harvested.
was harvested manually and this unpleasant task was				Retting
done by the lower castes, and in the United States by				Breaking
slaves of African origin.				Scutching
Preparatory Processes- Preparation of yarn				Hackling or combing
Ginning, bale-making and transportation is done in the				It is now treated like cotton.
country of origin.				Jute
Opening and cleaning				Main article: Jute
Platt Bros. Picker				Jute is a bast fibre, which comes from the inner bark
Cotton mills get the cotton shipped to them in large,				of the plants of the Corchorus genus. It is retted like
500 pound bales. When the cotton comes out of a				flax, sundried and baled. When spinning a small amount
bale, it is all packed together and still contains				of oil must be added to the fibre. It can be bleached
vegetable matter. The bale is broken open using a				and dyed. It was used for sacks and bags but is now
machine with large spikes. It is called an Opener.In				used for the backing for carpets.
order to fluff up the cotton and remove the vegetable				Hemp
matter, the cotton is sent through a picker, or similar				Main article: Hemp
machines. A picker looks similar to the carding machine				Hemp is a bast fibre from the inner bark of Cannabis
and the cotton gin, but is slightly different. The cotton is				sativa. It is difficult to bleach, it is used for making cord
fed into the machine and gets beaten with a beater				and rope.
bar, to loosen it up. It is fed through various rollers,				Retting
which serve to remove the vegetable matter. The				Separating
cotton, aided by fans, then collects on a screen and				Pounding
gets fed through more rollers till it emerges as a				Other bast fibres
continuous soft fleecy sheet, known as a lap.				These bast fibres can also be used: kenaf, urena,
Blending,				ramie, nettle.
Mixing & Scutching				Other leaf fibres
Carding				Sisal is the main leaf fibre used; others are: abac and
Main article: Carding				henequen.
Carding machine				Processing of Protein fibres
Carding: the fibres are separated and then assembled				Wool comes from domesticated sheep. It forms two
into a loose strand (sliver or tow) at the conclusion of				products, woolens and worsteds. The sheep has two
this stage.				sorts of wool and it in the inner coat that is used. This
The cotton comes off of the picking machine in laps,				can be mixed with wool that has been recovered
and is then taken to carding machines. The carders line				from rags. Shoddy is the term for recovered wool that
up the fibres nicely to make them easier to spin. The				is not matted, while mungo comes from felted wool.
carding machine consists mainly of one big roller with				Extract is recovered chemically from mixed cotton
smaller ones surrounding it. All of the rollers are				wool fabrics.
covered in small teeth, and as the cotton progresses				The fleece is cut in one piece from the sheep.This is
further on the teeth get finer (i.e. closer together). The				then skirted to remove the soiled wool, and baled. It is
cotton leaves the carding machine in the form of a				graded into long wool where the fibres can be up to 15
sliver; a large rope of fibres.				in, but anything over 2.5 inches is suitable for combing
Note: In a wider sense Carding can refer to these four				into worsteds. Fibres less than that form short wool
processes: Willowing- loosening the fibres; Lapping-				and are described as clothing or carding wool.
removing the dust to create a flat sheet or lap of				At the mill the wool is scoured in a detergent to
cotton; Carding- combing the tangled lap into a thick				remove grease (the yolk) and impurities. This is done
rope of 1/2 in in diameter, a sliver; and Drawing- where				mechanically in the opening machine. Vegetable matter
a drawing frame combines 4 slivers into one- repeated				can be removed chemically using sulfuric acid
for increased quality.				(carbonising). Washing uses a solution of soap and
Combing is optional,but is used to remove the shorter				sodium carbonate. The wool is oiled before carding or
fibres, creating a stronger yarn.				combing.
A Combing machine				Woollens: Use noils from the worsted combs, mungo
Drawing the fibres are straightened				and shoddy and new short wool
Several slivers are combined. Each sliver will have thin				Worsteds
and thick spots, and by combining several slivers				Combing: Oiled slivers are wound into laps, and placed
together a more consistent size can be reached. Since				in the circular comber. The worsted yarn gathers
combining several slivers produces a very thick rope				together to form a top. The shorter fibres or noils
of cotton fibres, directly after being combined the				remain behind and are removed with a knife.
slivers are separated into rovings. These rovings are				Angora
then what are used in the spinning process. Generally				Silk
speaking, for machine processing a roving is about the				The processes in silk production are similar to those of
width of a pencil.Next, several slivers are combined.				cotton but take account that reeeled silk is a
Each sliver will have thin and thick spots, and by				continuous fibre. The terms used are different.
combining several slivers together a more consistent				Opening bales. Assorting skeins:where silk is sorted by
size can be reached. Since combining several slivers				colour, size and quality, scouring: where the silk is
produces a very thick rope of cotton fibres, directly				washed in water of 40 degrees for 12 hours to
after being combined the slivers are separated into				remove the natural gum, drying:either by steam heating
rovings. These rovings (or slubbings) are then what are				or centrifuge, softening: by rubbing to remove any
used in the spinning process.				remaining hard spots.
Generally speaking, for machine processing, a roving is				Silk throwing (winding). The skeins are placed on a reel
about the width of a pencil.				in a frame with many others. The silk is wound onto
Drawing frame: Draws the strand out				spools or bobbins.
Slubbing Frame: adds twist, and winds on to bobbins				Doubling and twisting. The silk is far too fine to be
Intermediate Frames: are used to repeat the slubbing				woven, so now it is doubled and twisted to make the
process to produce a finer yarn.				warp, known as organzine and the weft, known as
Roving frames: reduces to a finer thread, gives more				tram. In organzine each single is given a few twists per
twist, makes more regular and even in thickness, and				inch (tpi), and combine with several other singles
winds on to a smaller tube.				counter twisted hard at 10 to 14 tpi. In tram the two
Spinning- Yarn manufacture				singles are doubled with each other with a light twist, 3
Main article: Cotton-spinning machinery				to 6 tpi. Sewing thread is two tram threads, hard
Spinning				twisted and machine-twist is made of three hard
The spinning machines take the roving, thins it and				twisted tram threads. Tram for the crepe process is
twists it, creating yarn which it winds onto a bobbin.				twisted at up to 80 tpi to make it 'kick up'.
In mule spinning the roving is pulled off a bobbin and				Stretching. The thread is tested for consistent size.
fed through some rollers, which are feeding at several				Any uneven thickness is stretched out. The resulting
different speeds.This thins the roving at a consistent				thread is reeled into containing 500 yd to 2500 yd. The
rate. If the roving was not a consistent size, then this				skeins are about 50 in in loop length.
step could cause a break in the yarn, or could jam the				Dyeing: the skeins are scoured again, and discoloration
machine. The yarn is twisted through the spinning of				removed with a sulphur process. This weakens the silk.
the bobbin as the carriage moves out, and is rolled				The skeins are now tinted or dyed. They are dried and
onto a cop as the carriage returns. Mule spinning				rewound onto bobbins, spools and skeins. Looming, and
produces a finer thread than the less skilled ring				the weaving process on power looms is the same as
spinning.				with cotton.
The mule was an intermittent process, as the frame				Weaving. The organzine is now warped. This is a
advanced and returned a distance of 5ft.It was the				similar process to in cotton. Firstly, thirty threads or so
descendant of 1779 Crompton device. It produces a				are wound onto a warping reel, and then using the
softer less twisted thread that was favoured for fines				warping reels, the threads are beamed. A thick layer
and for weft. It requires considerable skill, so was				of paper is lain between each layer on the beam to
womens work.				stop entangling.
The ring was a descendant of the Arkwright water				Processing of man made fibres
Frame 1769. It was a continuous process, the yard				Discussion of types of man made fibres
was coarser, had a greater twist and was stronger so				Main article: Synthetic fibre
was suited to be warp. Requiring less skill it was mens				Synthetic fibres are the result of extensive
work. Ring spinning is slow due to the distance the				development by scientists to improve upon the
thread must pass around the ring, other methods have				naturally occurring animal and plant fibres. In general,
been introduced. These are collectively known as				synthetic fibers are created by forcing, or extruding,
Break or Open-end spinning.				fibre forming materials through holes (called spinnerets)
Sewing thread, was made of several threads twisted				into the air, thus forming a thread. Before synthetic
together, or doubled.				fibres were developed, cellulose fibers were made
Checking				from natural cellulose, which comes from plants.
This is the process where each of the bobbins is				The first artificial fibre, known as art silk from 1799
rewound to give a tighter bobbin.				onwards, became known as viscose around 1894, and
Folding and twisting				finally rayon in 1924. A similar product known as
Plying is done by pulling yarn from two or more				cellulose acetate was discovered in 1865. Rayon and
bobbins and twisting it together, in the opposite direction				acetate are both artificial fibres, but not truly synthetic,
that that in which it was spun. Depending on the weight				being made from wood. Although these artificial fibres
desired, the cotton may or may not be plied, and the				were discovered in the mid-nineteenth century,
number of strands twisted together varies.				successful modern manufacture began much later in
Gassing				the 1930s. Nylon, the first synthetic fibre, made its debut
Main articles: Singe#Textiles and Gassing				in the United States as a replacement for silk, and was
Gassing is the process of passing yarn, as distinct				used for parachutes and other military uses.[citation
from fabric very rapidly through a series of Bunsen				needed]
gas flames in a gassing frame, in order to burn off the				The techniques used to process these fibres in yarn
projecting fibres and make the thread round and				are essentially the same as with natural fibres,
smooth and also brighter. Only the better qualities of				modifications have to be made as these fibers are of
yarn are gassed, such as that used for voiles, poplins,				great length, and have no texture such as the scales in
venetians, gabardines, many Egyptian qualities, etc.				cotton and wool that aid meshing.[citation needed]
There is a loss of weight in gassing, which varies'				Additional processes associated with man made fibres
about 5 to 8 per cent., so that if a 2/60's yarn is				See also
required 2/56's would be used. The gassed yarn is				Glossary of textile manufacturing
darker in shade afterwards, but should not be				References
scorched.				^ a b c Majeed, A (January 19, 2009). "Cotton and
Mule spinning				textiles the challenges ahead". Dawn-the Internet
Mule spinning				edition. Retrieved 2009-02-12.
Ring spinning				^ "Machin processes". Spinning the Web. Manchester
Ring spinning				City Council: Libraries. Retrieved 2009-01-29.
Measurements				^ a b c "Handicrafts India.". Craft Revival Trust,.
Main article: Units of textile measurement				Retrieved 2009-02-12.
Cotton Counts: The number of pieces of thread, 840				^ "Cultivating and Harvesting". Spinning the Web.
yards long needed to make up 1 lb weight. 10 count				Manchester City Council: Libraries. Retrieved
cotton means that 10x840 yd weighs 1 lb. This is				2009-01-29.
coarser than 40 count cotton where 40x840 yards				^ Collier 1970, p. 11
are needed. In the United Kingdom, Counts to 40s are				^ a b Collier 1970, p. 13
coarse (Oldham Counts), 40 to 80s are medium				^ "Preparatory Processes". Spinning the Web.
counts and above 80 is a fine count. In the United				Manchester City Council: Libraries. Retrieved
States ones to 20s are coarse counts.				2009-01-29.
Hank: A length of 7 leas or 840 yards				^ Collier 1970, pp. 66,67
Thread: A length of 54 in (the circumference of a				^ Collier 1970, p. 69
warp beam)				^ Collier 1970, pp. 70
Bundle: Usually 10 lb				^ Hills 1993, p. 4
Lea: A length of 80 threads or 120 yards				^ Collier 1970, pp. 71
Denier: this is an alternative method. It is defined as a				^ Saxonhouse, Gary. SST Seminars "Technological
number that is equivalent to the weight in grams of				Evolution in Cotton Spinning, 1878-1933". Stanford
9000m of a single yarn. 15 denier is finer than 30				University. SST Seminars. Retrieved 2009-01-26.
denier.				^ Collier 1970, pp. 79
Tex: is the weight in grams of 1 km of yarn.				^ "Spinning". Spinning the Web. Manchester City
The worsted hank is only 560 yd				Council: Libraries. Retrieved 2009-01-29.
Weaving-fabric manufacture				^ Curtis 1921, p. 1
The weaving process uses a loom. The lengthway				^ Curtis 1921, p. Cotton count
threads are known as the warp, and the cross way				^ Collier 1970, p. 3
threads are known as the weft. The warp which must				^ Collier 1970, p. 74
be strong needs to be presented to loom on a warp				^ "Weaving". Spinning the Web. Manchester City
beam. The weft, passes across the loom in a shuttle,				Council: Libraries. Retrieved 2009-01-29.
that carries the yarn on a pirn. These pirns are				^ Fowler, Alan (2003). Lancashire Cotton Operatives
automatically changed by the loom. Thus, the yarn				and Work, 1900-1950: A Social History of Lancashire
needs to be wrapped onto a beam, and onto pirns				Cotton Operatives in the Twentieth Century. Ashgate
before weaving can commence.				Publishing, Ltd.,. pp. 90. ISBN 0754601161,
Winding				9780754601166. Retrieved 21 Jan 2009.
After being spun and plied, the cotton thread is taken				^ Curtis 1921, p. Shed
to a warping room where the winding machine takes				^ Curtis 1921, p. Ends
the required length of yarn and winds it onto warpers				^ Collier 1970, p. 118
bobbins				^ "Finishing". Spinning the Web. Manchester City
Warping or beaming				Council: Libraries. Retrieved 2009-01-29.
A Warper				^ GREENHALGH, DAVID (2005). "Cotton finishing".
Racks of bobbins are set up to hold the thread while it				Retrieved 2009-02-12.
is rolled onto the warp bar of a loom. Because the				^ a b Collier 1970, p. 155
thread is fine, often three of these would be combined				^ Collier 1970, p. 157
to get the desired thread count.[citation needed].				^ Collier 1970, p. 159
Sizing				^ "Cotton: From Field to Fashion Facts behind the
Slasher sizing machine needed for strengthening the				Fiber". Talent2Trade. Retrieved 2009-02-12.
warp by adding starch.				^ Collier 1970, p. 16
Drawing in, Looming				^ Collier 1970, p. 17
The process of drawing each end of the warp				^ Collier 1970, p. 19
separately through the dents of the reed and the eyes				^ "Silk manufacture". Antiques Digest: Lost Knowledge
of the healds, in the order indicated by the draft.				from the Past. Old and Sold. Early 1900s. Retrieved
Pirning (Processing the weft)				2009-07-04.
Pirn winding frame was used to transfer the weft				Bibliography
from cheeses of yarn onto the pirns that would fit into				Barfoot, J. R. (1840). The Progress of Cotton. Barfoot's
the shuttle				series of coloured lithographs of 1840 depicting the
Weaving				cotton manufacturing process.. Spinning the Web,
Main article: Power loom				Manchester Libraries: Darton. pp. 12. Age of the
At this point, the thread is woven. Depending on the				it=submit. Retrieved 11 Feb 2009.
era, one person could manage anywhere from 3 to				Collier, Ann M (1970). A Handbook of Textiles.
100 machines. In the mid nineteenth century, four was				Pergamon Press. pp. 258. ISBN 0 08 018057 4, 0 08
the standard number. A skilled weaver in 1925 would				018056 6.
run 6 Lancashire Looms. As time progressed new				Curtis, H P (1921), "Glossary of Textile Terms", Arthur
mechanisms were added that stopped the loom any				Roberts Black Book. (Manchester: Marsden &
time something went wrong. The mechanisms				Company, Ltd. 1921), retrieved 2009-01-11
checked for such things as a broken warp thread,				Gurr, Duncan; Hunt, Julian (1998), The Cotton Mills of
broken weft thread, the shuttle going straight across,				Oldham, Oldham Education & Leisure, ISBN
and if the shuttle was empty. Forty of these Northrop				0-902809-46-6,
Looms or automatic looms could be operated by one				Hills, Richard Leslie (1993). Power from Steam: A
skilled worker.				History of the Stationary Steam Engine. Cambridge
A Draper loom in textile museum,Lowell,				University Press,. pp. 244. ISBN 052145834X,
Massachusetts				9780521458344. Retrieved January 2009.
The three primary movements of a loom are shedding,				Nasmith, Joseph (1894), "Recent Cotton Mill
picking, and beating-up.				Construction and Engineering", Recent Cotton Mill
Shedding: The operation of dividing the warp into two				Construction and Engineering. (John Heywood,
lines, so that the shuttle can pass between these lines.				Deansgate, Manchester, reprinted Elibron Classics),
There are two general kinds of sheds-"open" and				ISBN 1-4021-4558-6, retrieved 2009-01-11
"closed." Open Shed-The warp threads are moved				Roberts, A S (1921), "Arthur Robert's Engine List",
when the pattern requires it-from one line to the other.				Arthur Roberts Black Book. (One guy from
Closed Shed-The warp threads are all placed level in				Barlick-Book Transcription), retrieved 2009-01-11
one line after each pick.				External links
Picking:The operation of projecting the shuttle from				Cotton Year Book 1910 (Textile Mercury) Descriptions
side to side of the loom through the division in the warp				and calculations for purchasing all cotton processing
threads. This is done by the overpick or underpick				machines.
motions. The overpick is suitable for quick-running				1921 John Hetherington & Sons Catalogue
looms, whereas the underpick is best for heavy or				Descriptions and illustrations of principal machines.
slow looms.				Profile of the Textiles Industry: US EPA
Beating-up: The third primary movement of the loom				Guidebookv d e
when making cloth, and is the action of the reed as it				Fibers
drives each pick of weft to the fell of the cloth.				Natural
The Lancashire Loom was the first semi-automatic				Animal
loom. Jacquard looms and Dobby looms are looms				Alpaca Angora Bison Down Camel hair
that have sophisticated methods of shedding. They				Cashmere Catgut Chiengora Guanaco Llama
may be separate looms, or mechanisms added to a				Mohair Pashmina Qiviut Rabbit Silk Sinew
plain loom. A Northrop Loom was fully automatic and				Spider silk Wool Vicua Yak
was mass produced between 1909 and the mid 1960s.				Vegetable
Modern looms run faster and do not use a shuttle:				Abac Bamboo Coir Cotton Flax Hemp
there are air jet looms, water jet looms and rapier				Jute Kapok Kenaf Pia Raffia palm Ramie
looms.				Sisal Wood
Measurements				Mineral
Ends and Picks: Picks refer to the weft, ends refer to				Asbestos Basalt Mineral wool Glass wool
the warp. The coarseness of the cloth can be				Cellulose
expressed as the number of picks and ends per				Acetate Art silk Bamboo Lyocell (Tencel)
quarter inch square, or per inch square. Ends is always				Modal Rayon
written first. For example: Heavy domestics are made				Synthetic
from coarse yarns, such as 10's to 14's warp and weft,				Acrylic Aramid (Twaron Kevlar Technora
and about 48 ends and 52 picks.				Nomex) Carbon (Tenax) Microfiber Modacrylic
Associated job titles				Nylon Olefin Polyester Polyethylene (Dyneema
Piecer				Spectra) Spandex Vinalon Zylonv d e
Scavenger				Textile arts
Weaver				Fundamentals:
Tackler				Applique Crochet Dyeing Embroidery Fabric
Draw boy				(textiles) Felting Fiber Knitting Lace
Pirner				Nlebinding Needlework Patchwork
Issues				Passementerie Plying Quilting Rope Sewing
When a hand loom was located in the home, children				Spinning Tapestry Textile printing Weaving
helped with the weaving process from an early age.				Yarn
Piecing needs dexterity, and a child can be as				History of... :
productive as an adult. When weaving moves from				Clothing and textiles Silk Quilting Textiles in the
the home to the mill, children were often allowed to				Industrial Revolution Timeline of textile technology
help their older sisters, and laws have to be made to				Regional and ethnic:
prevent child labour becoming established,				Andean Australian Aboriginal Hmong Korean
Knitting- Fabric manufacture				Mori
A circular knitting machine.				Related:
Close-up on the needles.				Blocking Fiber art Mathematics and fiber arts
Knitting by machine is done in two different ways;				Manufacturing
warp and weft. Weft knitting (as seen in the pictures)				Preservation Terminology Textile industry Textile
is similar in method to hand knitting with stitches all				Museums Units of measurement Wearable fiber
connected to each other horizontally. Various weft				artv d e
machines can be configured to produce textiles from a				Spinning
single spool of yarn or multiple spools depending on the				Materials
size of the machine cylinder (where the needles are				Noil Rolag Roving Sliver Staple Top Tow
bedded). In a warp knit there are many pieces of yarn				Woolen Worsted
and there are vertical chains, zigzagged together by				Techniques
crossing the yarn.				Carding Combing Long draw Short draw Twist
Warp knits do not stretch as much as a weft knit, and				per inch
it is run-resistant. A weft knit is not run-resistant, but				Hand spinning tools
stretches more, this is especially true if spools of Lycra				Distaff Niddy noddy Spindle Spinning wheel
are processed from separate spool containers and				Spinners weasel
interwoven through the cylinder with cotton yarn giving				Industrial spinning
the finished product more flexibility making it less prone				Cotton-spinning machinery Open end spinning Ring
to having a 'baggy' appearance. The average t-shirt is				spinning Spinning frame Spinning jenny Spinning
a weft knit.				mule Throstle frame Water frame Wool combing
Finishing- Processing of Textiles				machinev d e
The grey cloth,woven cotton fabric in its loom-state,				Weaving
not only contains impurities, including warp size, but				Weaves
requires further treatment in order to develop its full				Basketweave Charvet Coverlet Double weave
textile potential. Furthermore, it may receive				Even-weave Lampas Oxford Pile weave
considerable added value by applying one or more				Piqu Plain weave Satin weave Twill Gabardine
finishing processes.				Components
Desizing				Textiles Warp Weft Yarn
Depending on the size that has been used, the cloth				Tools and techniques
may be steeped in a dilute acid and then rinsed, or				Chilkat weaving Fingerweaving Heddle Ikat Inkle
enzymes may be used to break down the size.				weaving Jacquard weaving Kasuri Loom
Scouring				Navajo rug Shuttle Tablet weaving Tniko
Scouring, is a chemical washing process carried out on				Tapestry
cotton fabric to remove natural wax and non-fibrous				Types of looms
impurities (eg the remains of seed fragments) from the				Dobby loom Jacquard loom Hattersley loom
fibres and any added soiling or dirt. Scouring is usually				Lancashire loom Northrop loom Power loom
carried in iron vessels called kiers. The fabric is boiled in				Roberts Loom Warp weighted loom
an alkali, which forms a soap with free fatty acids.				Weavers
(saponification). A kier is usually enclosed, so the				Acesas Ada Dietz Micheline Beauchemin
solution of sodium hydroxide can be boiled under				Pamphile John Rylands Brigitta Scherzenfeldt
pressure, excluding oxygen which would degrade the				Clara Sherman Judocus de Vosv d e
cellulose in the fibre. If the appropriate reagents are				Cotton
used, scouring will also remove size from the fabric				Architects
although desizing often precedes scouring and is				Stott Sidney Stott (later Sir Philip) Edward Potts
considered to be a separate process known as fabric				Potts, Pickup & Dixon F.W. Dixon & Son
preparation. Preparation and scouring are prerequisites				Engine makers
to most of the other finishing processes. At this stage				Daniel Adamson Ashton Frost Ashworth &
even the most naturally white cotton fibres are				Parker Boulton & Watt Browett &
yellowish, and bleaching, the next process, is required.				Lindley Buckley & Taylor Carel Earnshaw
Bleaching				& Holt Goodfellow Fairbairn W & J
Main article: Textile bleaching				Galloway B Goodfellow Hicks Musgrave J
Bleaching improves whiteness by removing natural				& W McNaught Petrie of Rochdale George
coloration and remaining trace impurities from the				Saxon Scott & Hodgson Urmson &
cotton; the degree of bleaching necessary is				Thompson Yates of Blackburn Yates &
determined by the required whiteness and absorbency.				Thom Whilans J & E Wood Woolstenhulmes
Cotton being a vegetable fibre will be bleached using				& Rye
an oxidizing agent, such as dilute sodium hydrochlorite				Machinery makers
or dilute hydrogen peroxide. If the fabric is to be dyed				Brooks & Doxey Butterworth & Dickinson
a deep shade, then lower levels of bleaching are				Dobson & Barlow John Hetherington &
acceptable, for example. However, for white bed				Sons Joseph Hibbert Howard & Bullough
sheetings and medical applications, the highest levels of				Geo.
whiteness and absorbency are essential.

Arunchemi

Textile manufacturing

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