The History of Leather

The use of animal hides for clothing and basic survivalsolution of organic matter in which bacteria grew and
items can be traced back as far as Early Man in theattacked the hides or skins, resulting in a loosening of
Paleolithic period. Cave paintings discovered in cavesthe hair or wool and some dissolving out of skin
near Lerida in Spain depict the use of leather clothing.protein. The hair or wool was then scraped off with
Man hunted wild animals for food but removed theirprimitive blunt stone or wooden scrapers and fat or
hides and skins from the dead carcass and used themmeat still adhering to the flesh side was removed in a
as crude tents, clothing and footwear.similar manner.
Early man realized that the skins rapidly putrefied andTanning, the conversion of pelt into leather, was done
thus became useless. They needed a way toby dusting the raw stock with ground up bark other
preserve the hides. The earliest method was toorganic matter and placing them in shallow pits or vats
stretch the hides and skins on the ground to dry,of tannin solution.Further additions of ground bark, were
rubbing them with fats and animals brains while theymade from time to time until the tannin solution had
dried. This had a limited preserving and softening action.penetrated right through the skin structure, taking up to
Primitive man discovered also that the smoke of woodtwo years for very thick hides. The leather was then
fires could preserve hides and skins, as did treatinghung up for several days in open sheds. The dressing
them with an infusion of tannin-containing barks, leaves,of the leather involved paring or shaving it to a level
twigs and fruits of certain trees and plants. It seemsthickness, coloring, treatment with oils and greases,
likely that man first discovered how to make leatherdrying and final treatment of the grain surface with
when he found that animal skins left lying on a wetwaxes, proteins such as blood and egg albumins, and
forest floor became tanned naturally by chemicalsshellac to produce attractive surface finishes.
released by decaying leaves and vegetation.During the Middle Ages leather was used for all kinds
Much later the use of earth salts containing alum as aof purposes such as: footwear, clothes, leather bags,
tanning agent to produce soft white leather wascases and trunks, leather bottles, saddlery and harness,
discovered. The alum leathers could be dyed withfor the upholstery of chairs, and couches, book binding
naturally occurring dyestuffs in various plants. Inand military uses. It was also used to decorate
Egyptian times leather was used for sandals, clothes,coaches, sedan chairs and walls.The majority of the
gloves, buckets, bottles, shrouds for burying the deadleather was tanned with oak bark but soft clothing,
and for military equipment. In Egyptian tombs, wallgloving and footwear leathers were tanned with alum,
paintings and artifacts depicted these uses of leather.oil, and combinations of these two materials.With the
The Romans also used leather on a wide scale fordiscovery and introduction of basic chemicals like lime
footwear, clothes, and military equipment includingand sulphuric acid, tanners gradually abandoned their
shields, saddles and harnesses. Excavation of Romantraditional methods and leather production slowly
sites in Great Britain has yielded large quantities ofbecame a chemically based series of processes.
leather articles such as footwear and clothing.TheThe growth of industrialization in the 18th and 19th
manufacture of leather was introduced to Britain bycenturies created a demand for many new kinds of
the Roman invaders and by religious communities,leathers, e.g., belting leathers to drive the machines
whose monks were expert at making leather,being introduced into industry, special leathers for use in
especially vellum and parchment for writing purposes.looms in the textile industry, leathers for use as
The ancient Britons had many uses for leather fromdiaphragms and washers, leathers for use in transport
footwear, clothing and leather bags, to articles ofand for furniture upholstery.
warfare. The hulls of the early boats, known asAt the end of the nineteenth century, the invention of
coracles, were also covered in leather. Through thethe motor car, modern roads, new ranges of coal tar
centuries leather manufacture expanded steadily anddyestuffs, the demand for softer, lightweight footwear
by mediaeval times most towns and villages had awith a fashionable appearance, and a general rise in
tannery, situated on the local stream or river, whichthe standard of living created a demand for soft,
they used as a source of water for processing and assupple, colorful leather. The traditional vegetable tanned
a source of power for their water wheel drivenleather was too hard and thick for these requirements
machines. Many of these tanneries still exist, but inand thus, the use of the salts of the metal chromium
many towns the only remaining evidence is in streetwas adopted and chrome tanning became the
names, like Tanner Street, Bark Street and Leathertannage for modern footwear and fashion leathers. It
Lane.produces soft, supple, beautiful and fine leathers,
The earliest crude leathers were made by firstreflecting the way we live.
immersing the raw hides and skins in a fermentingI hope you enjoyed this little history lesson!