Everything about dyes and dying


What are color pigments

Pigments in ink are made out of goatblow for the cochineal color industry.
urine. When goat urine rots it creates aWhen chemists created inexpensive
chemical that is productive in ink.substitutes for carmine, an industry and
Naturally occurring pigments such asa way of life went into steep decline.
ochres and iron oxides have been used asNew sources for historic pigments
colorants since prehistoric times.Before the Industrial Revolution, many
Archaeologists have uncovered evidencepigments were known by the location
that early humans used paint forwhere they were produced. Pigments based
aesthetic purposes such as bodyon minerals and clays often bore the
decoration. Pigments and paint grindingname of the city or region where they
equipment believed to be between 350,000were mined. Raw Sienna and Burnt Sienna
and 400,000 years old have been reportedcame from Sienna, Italy, while Raw Umber
in a cave at Twin Rivers, near Lusaka,and Burnt Umber came from Umbria. These
Zambia.pigments were among the easiest to
Before the Industrial Revolution, thesynthesize, and chemists created modern
range of color available for art andcolors based on the originals that were
decorative uses was technically limited.more consistent than colors mined from
Most of the pigments in use were earththe original ore bodies. But the place
and mineral pigments, or pigments ofnames remained.
biological origin. Pigments from unusualHistorically and culturally, many famous
sources such as botanical materials,natural pigments have been replaced with
animal waste, insects, and mollusks weresynthetic pigments, while retaining
harvested and traded over longhistoric names. In some cases the
distances. Some colors were costly ororiginal color name has shifted in
impossible to mix with the range ofmeaning, as a historic name has been
pigments that were available. Blue andapplied to a popular modern color. By
purple came to be associated withconvention, a contemporary mixture of
royalty because of their expense.pigments that replaces a historical
Biological pigments were often difficultpigment is indicated by calling the
to acquire, and the details of theirresulting color a hue, but manufacturers
production were kept secret by theare not always careful in maintaining
manufacturers. Tyrian Purple is athis distinction. The following examples
pigment made from the mucus of one ofillustrate the shifting nature of
several species of Murex snail.historic pigment names:
Production of Tyrian Purple for use as aIndian Yellow was once produced by
fabric dye began as early as 1200 BCE bycollecting the urine of cattle that had
the Phoenicians, and was continued bybeen fed only mango leaves. Dutch and
the Greeks and Romans until 1453 CE,Flemish painters of the 17th and 18th
with the fall of Constantinople. Thecenturies favored it for its luminescent
pigment was expensive and complex toqualities, and often used it to
produce, and items colored with itrepresent sunlight. In Girl with a Pearl
became associated with power and wealth.Earring, Vermeer's patron remarks that
Greek historian Theopompus, writing inVermeer used "cow piss" to paint his
the 4th century BCE, reported thatwife. Since mango leaves are
"purple for dyes fetched its weight innutritionally inadequate for cattle, the
silver at Colophon [in Asia Minor]."practice of harvesting Indian Yellow was
Mineral pigments were also traded overeventually declared to be inhumane.
long distances. The only way to achieveModern Indian Yellow Hue is a mixture of
a deep rich blue was by using asynthetic pigments.
semi-precious stone, lapis lazuli, andUltramarine, originally the
the best sources of lapis were remote.semi-precious stone lapis lazuli, has
Flemish painter Jan Van Eyck, working inbeen replaced by an inexpensive modern
the 15th century, did not ordinarilysynthetic pigment manufactured from
include blue in his paintings. To havealuminum silicate with sulfur
one's portrait commissioned and paintedimpurities. At the same time, Royal
with blue was considered a great luxury.Blue, another name once given to tints
If a patron wanted blue, they wereproduced from lapis lazuli, has evolved
forced to pay extra. When Van Eyck usedto signify a much lighter and brighter
lapis, he never blended it with othercolor, and is usually mixed from Phthalo
colors. Instead he applied it in pureBlue and titanium dioxide, or from
form, almost as a decorative glaze.inexpensive synthetic blue dyes. Since
Spain's conquest of a New World empiresynthetic ultramarine is chemically
in the 16th century introduced newidentical with lapis lazuli, the "hue"
pigments and colors to peoples on bothdesignation is not used. French Blue,
sides of the Atlantic. Carmine, a dyeyet another historic name for
and pigment derived from a parasiticUltramarine, was adopted by the textile
insect found in Central and Southand apparel industry as a color name in
America, attained great status and valuethe 1990s, and was applied to a shade of
in Europe. Produced from harvested,blue that has nothing in common with the
dried, and crushed cochineal insects,historic pigment French Ultramarine.
carmine could be used in fabric dye,Vermilion, a toxic mercury compound
body paint, or in its solid lake form,favored for its deep red-orange color by
almost any kind of paint or cosmetic.old master painters such as Titian, has
Natives of Peru had been producingbeen replaced by convenience mixtures of
cochineal dyes for textiles since atsynthetic, inorganic pigments. Although
least 700 CE,[4] but Europeans had nevergenuine Vermilion paint can still be
seen the color before. When the Spanishpurchased for fine arts and art
invaded the Aztec empire in what is nowconservation applications, few
Mexico, they were quick to exploit themanufacturers make it, because of legal
color for new trade opportunities.liability issues. Few artists buy it,
Carmine became the region's second mostbecause it has been superseded by modern
valuable export next to silver. Pigmentspigments that are both less expensive
produced from the cochineal insect gaveand less toxic, as well as less reactive
the Catholic cardinals their vibrantwith other pigments. As a result,
robes and the English "Redcoats" theirgenuine Vermilion is almost unavailable.
distinctive uniforms. The true source ofModern vermilion colors are properly
the pigment, an insect, was kept secretdesignated as Vermilion Hue to
until the 18th century, when biologistsdistinguish them from genuine Vermilion.
discovered the source.[5]Manufacturing and industrial standards
While Carmine was popular in Europe,Before the development of synthetic
blue remained an exclusive color,pigments, and the refinement of
associated with wealth and status. Thetechniques for extracting mineral
17th century Dutch master Johannespigments, batches of color were often
Vermeer often made lavish use of lapisinconsistent. With the development of a
lazuli. Girl with a Pearl Earring, amodern color industry, manufacturers and
novel by Tracy Chevalier, is a fictionalprofessionals have cooperated to create
account of one of Vermeer's most famousinternational standards for identifying,
paintings. In Chevalier's novel, and inproducing, measuring, and testing
the film based upon it, the artist usescolors.
lapis to paint the headscarf on a youngFirst published in 1905, the Munsell
servant girl. Vermeer (played by ColinColor System became the foundation for a
Firth in the film version) admonishesseries of color models, providing
the servant girl Griet (played byobjective methods for the measurement of
Scarlett Johansson) to keep this secretcolor. The Munsell system describes a
from his wife, knowing that his wifecolor in three dimensions, hue, value
will be jealous.[6](or lightness), and chroma, where chroma
Development of synthetic pigmentsis the difference from gray at a given
The Industrial and Scientifichue and value.
Revolutions brought a huge expansion inBy the middle years of the 20th century,
the range of synthetic pigments,standardized methods for pigment
pigments that are manufactured orchemistry were available, part of an
refined from naturally occurringinternational movement to create such
materials, available both forstandards in industry. The International
manufacturing and artistic expression.Organization for Standardization (ISO)
Because of the expense of Lapis Lazuli,develops technical standards for the
much effort went into finding a lessmanufacture of pigments and dyes. ISO
costly blue pigment.standards define various industrial and
Prussian Blue was the first syntheticchemical properties, and how to test for
pigment, discovered by accident in 1704.them. The principal ISO standards that
By the early 19th century, synthetic andrelate to all pigments are as follows:
metallic blue pigments had been added toISO-787 General methods of test for
the range of blues, including Frenchpigments and extenders
Ultramarine, a synthetic form of LapisISO-8780 Methods of dispersion for
Lazuli, and the various forms of Cobaltassessment of dispersion characteristics
and Cerulean Blue. In the early 20thOther ISO standards pertain to
century, organic chemistry added Phthaloparticular classes or categories of
Blue, a synthetic, organic pigment withpigments, based on their chemical
overwhelming tinting power.composition, such as ultramarine
Discoveries in color science created newpigments, titanium dioxide, iron oxide
industries and drove changes in fashionpigments, and so forth.
and taste. The discovery in 1856 ofMany manufacturers of paints, inks,
mauveine, the first aniline dye, was atextiles, plastics, and colors have
forerunner for the development ofvoluntarily adopted the Colour Index
hundreds of synthetic dyes and pigments.International (CII) as a standard for
Mauveine was discovered by anidentifying the pigments that they use
18-year-old chemist named William Henryin manufacturing particular colors.
Perkin, who went on to exploit hisFirst published in 1925, and now
discovery in industry and becomepublished jointly on the web by the
wealthy. His success attracted aSociety of Dyers and Colourists (United
generation of followers, as youngKingdom) and the American Association of
scientists went into organic chemistryTextile Chemists and Colorists (USA),
to pursue riches. Within a few years,this index is recognized internationally
chemists had synthesized a substituteas the authoritative reference on
for madder in the production of Alizarincolorants. It encompasses more than
Crimson. By the closing decades of the27,000 products under more than 13,000
19th century, textiles, paints, andgeneric color index names.
other commodities in colors such as red,In the CII schema, each pigment has a
crimson, blue, and purple had becomegeneric index number that identifies it
affordable.[7]chemically, regardless of proprietary
Self Portrait by Paul Cézanne. Workingand historic names. For example, Phthalo
in the late 19th century, Cezanne had aBlue has been known by a variety of
palette of colors that earliergeneric and proprietary names since its
generations of artists could only dreamdiscovery in the 1930s. In much of
of.Europe, phthalocyanine blue is better
Self Portrait by Paul Cézanne. Workingknown as Helio Blue, or by a proprietary
in the late 19th century, Cezanne had aname such as Winsor Blue. An American
palette of colors that earlierpaint manufacturer, Grumbacher,
generations of artists could only dreamregistered an alternate spelling (Thalo
of.Blue) as a trademark. Colour Index
Development of chemical pigments andInternational resolves all these
dyes helped bring new industrialconflicting historic, generic, and
prosperity to Germany and otherproprietary names so that manufacturers
countries in northern Europe, but itand consumers can identify the pigment
brought dissolution and decline(or dye) used in a particular color
elsewhere. In Spain's former New Worldproduct. In the CII, all Phthalo Blue
empire, the production of cochinealpigments are designated by a generic
colors employed thousands of low-paidcolour index number as either PB15 or
workers. The Spanish monopoly onPB36, short for pigment blue 15 and
cochineal production had been worth apigment blue 36. (The two forms of
fortune until the early 1800s, when thePhthalo Blue, PB15 and PB36, reflect
Mexican War of Independence and otherslight variations in molecular structure
market changes disrupted production.[8]that produce a slightly more greenish or
Organic chemistry delivered the finalreddish blue.)



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