| This is the second in a series of articles on the subject | | | | of a formula in a pitcher and some in a very small |
| of dyeing wool, using the three primaries, metric | | | | syringe, that the ratios of the formulas will still be |
| measurement, liquid dyestock, and percentage-based | | | | accurate. I have tried other sizes in syringes and |
| formulas. In the first installment, I described an overview | | | | pitchers, but have found them to be less reliable in |
| of the methods I use to dye wool, and the reasoning | | | | terms of the accuracy of their markings, although this |
| behind them. In this installment, I will go into more detail | | | | may just be a problem with the particular products I |
| about the equipment I prefer to use. | | | | have come across. For the casual dyer all of this may |
| These methods could be adapted for dyeing any kind | | | | not be important, but if you are into precision dyeing, it |
| of wool fiber, from fleece to roving to yarn, because | | | | certainly does make a difference, as my pile of reject |
| they are based on the weight of the wool, rather than | | | | colors will attest. And be aware that the markings do |
| the dimensions. In fact, you could accommodate dyeing | | | | rub off after repeated use on many syringes, so try to |
| other fibers and materials, as well, using similar | | | | avoid touching the numbers and gradation lines as you |
| equipment and the methods I describe. Indeed, adapting | | | | work. |
| all of the information below and in future articles is | | | | AUXILIARY SUPPLIES |
| possible, with the likely need for adjustments to | | | | I use Synthrapol or original Dawn liquid (very similar, |
| accommodate the dye product you are using and the | | | | chemically) to reduce surface tension while dyeing. |
| fiber you are dyeing. So even if you dye silk, cotton or | | | | I use either citric acid or vinegar to reduce dye-bath |
| other fibers, read on! | | | | pH, and if you have access to "sour salt" at |
| GENERAL EQUIPMENT | | | | reasonable prices (it can be found sometimes at |
| Following are ideas and suggestions for supplies to use | | | | dented can stores) this also works, because it is |
| - at least, equipment that has worked well for me. At | | | | straight citric acid. As most dyers will tell you, vinegar is |
| the end of the article I will provide links and other | | | | much more expensive to use over the long-term, so if |
| information about where to find these supplies. | | | | you plan to dye in quantity, use citric acid, which is also |
| WOOL | | | | more convenient and pleasant to use. |
| I always use white wool, or the lightest natural wool | | | | For stirring I use stainless steel chopsticks - they work |
| possible. This keeps the purchasing of raw materials to | | | | great when trialing colors in little pots, and also work |
| a minimum and also standardizes an important variable | | | | fine in big pots, too, for pieces up to ½ yard. I |
| when analyzing basic colors. For instance, when looking | | | | purchased several pairs and keep them in a beaker |
| at two similar wool colors with the idea of creating the | | | | filled with water while dyeing. This keeps them rinsed |
| color between the two, it would be much more difficult | | | | when I am stirring several pots at a time with |
| if two different base colors were used for the two | | | | dramatically different dye colors in them, particularly if I |
| pieces, making the dye formulas for the colors used to | | | | stir a black in one pot and a pale yellow in the next. It is |
| overdye them, therefore, very different. But finding that | | | | amazing how a tiny bit of black dye clinging to the |
| 'in-between' color when looking at two wool colors | | | | chopstick can alter the color of a pale yellow. (Don't |
| both created using the same three primaries on white | | | | ask me how I know.) I like them also because they |
| or natural wool is much easier. By standardizing the | | | | don't absorb the dye and are compact and easy to |
| base color and using only primary dyes, both formulas | | | | store. Not great for picking up rice, though. |
| are related. So the in-between color will be produced | | | | I use Glauber's salt to keep the colors even on the |
| using a mathematical formula somewhere between | | | | wool, which is how I sell it -- just lightly mottled. Salt |
| the other two similar mathematical formulas. If I make | | | | molecules compete with the dye molecules to bond |
| a mistake in mixing a formula, I often catch it when | | | | with the wool molecules, effectively slowing down the |
| comparing the resulting color to the colors on either | | | | bonding of the dye to the wool, and thereby preventing |
| mathematical side of it, if it does not follow the logical | | | | the dye from 'grabbing' in blotches. For most colors this |
| progression of color, which colors do. This systematic | | | | is not an issue with regular stirring, and for most of the |
| approach has created a predictability to dyeing that is | | | | colors in my collection, I don't use it. But for light browns, |
| very satisfying and comfortable. If I do want a special | | | | tans, greys, and some very dull blues, greens and |
| effect using a different base color, I can always dye | | | | purples, it is essential for even color, particularly in the |
| the white wool to this base, and then finish the special | | | | lighter values, up to the medium levels. I don't use it on |
| effect. I find this occasional need for a two-step | | | | darker levels, because I find that it dramatically retards |
| process preferable to stocking many colors of wool. | | | | the absorption of the yellow dye when there is a lot of |
| DYES | | | | dye in the pot, often doubling the processing time. If |
| I use ProChem washfast acid dyes, purchasing the | | | | you prefer an irregular color and/or don't mind a little |
| three primaries that they offer. With these colors, it is | | | | serendipity in the dyepot sometimes, leave out the salt. |
| possible to produce a complete range of colors in | | | | If you want to use it, I find that plain table salt also |
| many values, from near white to dark black -- just | | | | works fine. |
| about any color I would ever want. Although plain | | | | Below are some sources for finding supplies. I distribute |
| greys and blacks can be produced with the primaries, I | | | | these articles to several article sites, some of which |
| have found that those formulas don't work as well for | | | | have strict limits on the number of URLs one can use |
| specialty effects, such as gradation dip dyes. The | | | | in an article, so I will give the names and trust you can |
| formula will tend to separate into its components as | | | | find them easily online. |
| the color develops, giving an unpredictable result. Not | | | | Dorr Mill - Wool (I have also used other sources, such |
| that this won't be usable or desirable in certain | | | | as Woolrich) |
| circumstances, it just may not be what I am after. So | | | | ProChemical & Dye - Dyes, plastic beakers, |
| the preformulated black from ProChem is more | | | | pitchers, citric acid, Glauber's salt, Synthrapol |
| predictable, and therefore preferable, for distressing | | | | SKS - Glass beakers (Also available at other science |
| and antiquing, and for highly mottled effects. Basic | | | | or lab supply sites) |
| browns and tans are also more difficult to produce | | | | Old Will Knott Scales, online - Scale (Look for the 'My |
| with consistency, so the casual dyer may want to | | | | Weigh - Stainless steel chopsticks, vegetable steamer |
| stock grey, black, and/or some browns, along with the | | | | (Also found at other kitchen retailers) |
| primaries. | | | | Syringes Your local drugstore will often provide you |
| COOKING VESSELS | | | | with several slip-tip (without needle) 1-ml syringes for |
| I do two kinds of dyeing, each with its own process | | | | free if you smile sweetly and don't ask too often. |
| and cooking vessels: | | | | (They may also have 3-ml syringes available.) They |
| Trialing of colors on small pieces of wool, to find new | | | | provide these as a courtesy to anyone. I request 3-4 |
| colors | | | | at a time. You can also find 10-ml syringes at the |
| Dyeing large pieces of wool for my own use or for | | | | drugstore for a few dollars. These sizes are the |
| sale. | | | | mainstay of color trialing small pieces of wool, and I |
| I trial colors on 4-gram pieces of wool (a scant 5" X 5" | | | | also frequently use them for larger pieces -- even |
| in 13-oz. wool), one piece in each of six beakers filled | | | | when dyeing 1/2 yard, a 5% (pale) value still only |
| halfway with water, in a dry casserole (just to hold | | | | requires 10 ml of dye. eBay and eCrater are also good |
| them--any stable non-metal vessel will do) cooked in | | | | online sources for syringes of all sizes. Look for |
| the microwave. I use scientific beakers in a 300 ml | | | | veterinary syringes for larger sizes (60-ml is common) |
| size, because they are built to tolerate repeated | | | | although I have found the 250-ml pitchers from |
| heating and cooling without breaking. They are slender, | | | | ProChem to be more accurate, and just as easy to |
| so I find them easier to handle, and I can fit more into a | | | | use. I have searched online medical supply companies |
| pot or casserole. (Mason jars will work just fine for the | | | | for syringes without much success, price-wise, but if |
| casual dyer.) I have trialed literally thousands of pieces | | | | you should come across a good source, please let me |
| of wool, and I have found the microwave to be the | | | | know! |
| most convenient and definitely the most cost-effective | | | | In case you would like to have a concise and |
| approach. I have also tried putting beakers or jars in a | | | | exhaustive list of the equipment you will need to try |
| water bath on the stove and in the oven, but I found | | | | this method, here it is. Much of this you will have at |
| this process to be more time consuming and logistically | | | | home, or know where to get without my help. |
| more difficult, so I have stuck with the microwave. You | | | | Wool |
| may find you prefer another method, so just use | | | | Sun Yellow dye 119 |
| whatever method that suits you, as long as it gets the | | | | WF Magenta dye 338 |
| water simmering in each jar. If you do use your | | | | Brilliant Blue dye 490 |
| microwave, please be cautious when heating the | | | | Black dye 672 |
| water in the little pots. If it gets to a good boil, | | | | Brown dye (optional, also available at ProChem) |
| sometimes it will unexpectedly 'explode' or 'pop', | | | | Citric Acid or distilled vinegar |
| possibly burning you. Wear protective gloves over | | | | Glauber's Salt or table salt (optional) |
| your hands and wrists when the water is near boiling. | | | | Synthrapol or Dawn dish liquid |
| In all my hundreds of batches, this has happened twice, | | | | Plastic pitchers -- 5 - 6 in 250-ml size, 2 - 3 in 1,000-ml |
| and I got a nasty burn one of those times. | | | | size |
| For large pieces of wool, I use the standard stainless | | | | (All of the above can be found at ProChem.) |
| steel pots that many dyers use. If you are using an | | | | 1-ml, 3-ml, 10-ml syringes |
| electric stove, you may need to place something extra | | | | Digital Scale |
| between the burner and the wool, unless you are using | | | | Stirrers |
| a good, heavy pot. A thin metal pot resting directly on | | | | Utility spoon for scooping dyes when weighing (any old |
| the burner will cause any wool laying against the | | | | teaspoon or measuring spoon will do) |
| bottom of the pot to grab the color, causing dark | | | | Screw cap milk jugs (or smaller jugs if you prefer) for |
| splotches. So you have two options. A spacer can be | | | | holding dyestock |
| put between the pot and the burner, or a vegetable | | | | In addition, if you will be trialing colors you will need: |
| steamer can be placed in the bottom of the pot to | | | | 6 - 12 Beakers or Mason jars |
| prevent this. I prefer the vegetable steamer myself, | | | | Casserole or other flat vessel |
| because then I can protect the wool, while leaving the | | | | Microwave (preferably dedicated to dyeing) |
| pot directly on the burner so the water heats up | | | | 6-8 Additional small glasses or cups for mixing |
| faster. (I'm always in a hurry.) | | | | formulas will be handy |
| MEASURING IMPLEMENTS | | | | Or for dyeing larger pieces: |
| I use a 3,000 gram digital scale that weighs to the | | | | 3-4 large stainless steel or enamel pots, about 20-quart |
| nearest gram, with a bin for holding wool. It is compact, | | | | size |
| easy to use, not too expensive, and does the job. | | | | Vegetable steamers (optional) |
| For small pieces I use 1-ml, 3-ml, 5-ml, and 10-ml | | | | I hope this information gets you started. In the fourth |
| syringes. For larger pieces I switch to 20-ml syringes, | | | | installment, I will describe how I trial colors. It's a fun |
| or 250 ml plastic beakers. For measuring even larger | | | | project that I guarantee will consume you if you are |
| amounts, I use the plastic pitchers graded to 1,000 ml | | | | not careful! You will need to set aside several days for |
| from ProChem, and I have tested and found that the | | | | this, depending upon how thorough you want to be. I |
| gradations on these larger containers track quite | | | | can't be held responsible if it turns into weeks. By then, |
| accurately with the ml gradations of the smaller | | | | your family will be hoping for soup cooking in the pots, |
| syringes and beakers, so when measuring varying | | | | instead of wool -- better stock up on frozen dinners! |
| amounts of dye, I feel confident that if I measure part | | | | |